Saturday, June 15, 2013

Saving the spring: rhubarb pickles

Ragazzi, you all probably know by now that Annalena loves her rhubarb.  And let us face it: rhubarb is not that easy to love.    Take a bite of it raw, and it almost bites you back.  Cook it, and you'd better have a heavy hand with the sugar.  And if you cook it, CAREFUL, because it will go from firm and solid to mush in about a nanosecond.

And yet... TRY to describe the taste of rhubarb without saying "rhubarb."  Best Annalena can come up with is a combination of apples and lemons when it's raw, and sour cherries and peaches when it's cooked and sweetened.   There is, truly, nothing else like it.  And that's why you see so many rhubarb recipes on this page. It's fun.  It's unusual.  And let Annalena tell you: rhubarb jam is a mean glaze on lamb.

So when her CSA list came out, and rhubarb was on the list, she thought "ok, fine.  What to do?"  And the CSA provided a recipe for pickled rhubarb.

OK, Annalena will pickle anything, and probably has .  But not rhubarb.  So she read through this recipe. Ridiculously easy. So carini, if you love rhubarb, and you want to save some of it against the time when it's gone (which will be pretty soon), try this.

You need about 12 ounces of untrimmed rhubarb, because by the time you trim the ends, and remove stringy bits,  you'll have a hefty half pound. That is in fact what you need:  about 8-10 ounces, cut into 1/2 to 1 inch pieces.  Put these in a sieve and toss them with 3/4 of a teaspoon of salt (if you don't feel like measuring that exactly, use a teaspoon.

Now, make  your brine.  It's rhubarb, so this brine is heavy on sweet stuff.  You combine a cup of sugar, a cup of apple cider vinegar (you could use white wine if you like), and then the juice and rind of an orange and a lemon (cut the rind into little pieces.  Don't use the white spot).  Now add a stick of cinnamon, three cloves, and two big teaspoons of yellow mustard seeds.  Don't leave these out.  make a trip and get some.  Also add a few slices of ginger. You don't have to peel it. 2-3 are fine. And, finally, if you are so inclined, a hot pepper.

Start heating this until the sugar melts into the vinegar.  Then lower the heat and steep this for fifteen minutes.

Get three 8 ounce jars ready.   They need to be clean, but these are refrigerator pickles, so you don't have to worry about stuff that will seal. We're not "canning" here.  No, no no.      Stuff the rhubarb into the jars as well as you can. CRAM the suckers in.    And when the liquid is lukewarm, spoon it into the jars, over the rhubarb.  You toss the cinnamon, but you use the other solids

You may find that  you are running out of brine, before you cover the third jar.  If so, augment what's left with half water, and half vinegar.  It will be fine.  Cover the jars, let them come to room temperature, and refrigerate them.

Don't eat these for a couple of days, to let the rhubarb pick up the flavor.  In the fridge, they are probably good for two months.  

This will seem to make a very small amount to those of you who adore rhubarb. Well, double the recipe.  Or triple it.  And put some of them down the next time you roast some heavy duty meat.  Annalena, because she is a lunatic, is making oxtails very soon.  She thinks the pickle may be  precisely the right thing that the dish needs.  How will you use yours?  Tell us all. SHARE!

Tuesday, June 11, 2013

A simpler way: strawberry sponge cake

Is there anyone reading this who does not love strawberry shortcake?  Ok, now, how many of us can say that we've actually eaten AUTHENTIC strawberry shortcake.

Hmmmm.  Had to think about that, didn't you?  And you began thinking  "well, what IS authentic strawberry shortcake," which of course brings up the question, "what is shortcake?"

For folks who bake, answering that question is tricky, because it's counter intuitive.  We learn how to make short piecrust, which is essentially a crust that is so rich that it breaks into small, short flakes.  In the good old days, one of the highest compliments you could pay to a baker was to say   "my.  This crust is SHORT!"  It meant she (and it was always a she ragazzi), had mastered the art - and it's not an easy one.

Shortcake,  however, has nothing to do with short pie crust.  And try as she might, Annalena has not been able to come up with a coherent, rational explanation for the term, other than, PERHAPS, because it's cake baked in a short amount of time.    Whatever the reason, when it's made right, it's GOOD.

Annalena's favorite shortcakes are ones that are made on the spot, and are still a bit warm when they're served.  And that's where the problem comes in , ragazzi.   Generally, you have to make it "a tempo," (on the spot, so to speak), which means your guests wait, you get frazzled,  and generally, you wind up wondering  "why did I do this?"  Unquestionably, if you are in a position when you can do it right,  do it.  But for those of us who want a dessert and can't necessarily put everything down to make it, Annalena proffers this one to you.

The recipe as posted originally was called strawberry shortcake.  This is NOT shortcake, carini.  It is closer to a sponge, or a genoise.  Anytime you see a recipe that calls for beating eggs to the "ribbon" stage, as this one does, you are working with genoise.  It is easy to make - easier than shortcake biscuits - and  you can walk around bragging about how you mastered a fancy cake called genoise.  (incidentally, this is the cake that is used for those layers in petit fours.  It is a really good basic recipe to have around, because it goes with everything).  And it keeps.

So, we're going to make the cake,  prep the berries, and then talk about the cream.  This all sounds harder than it is.  Annalena's recipe said it takes an hour and a half to make this.  Annalena did it in forty minutes, and 30 of it was baking.


First, melt two tablespoons of butter, and have some more handy for when you grease the pan.  Put that into a cup and add a third of a cup of whole milk.  The hot butter should warm it, and then add a good dollop of  vanilla extract.  A tablespoon is not too much.    Put that aside.  Then, in a bowl, add a very generous cup of flour.  You actually need 1.25 cups, and if you only have a one cup measuring cup, play with the margins.  And add a heaping teaspoon of baking powder to it, and half a teaspoon of salt.  Shake this all together.

Ok, now get your mixer out.  Put in 2 large eggs, and an extra egg white.  Have about  2 cups of granulated sugar ready.    Use the whisk attachment to your mixer, and beat the egg mixture hard for about a minute.  Then, very slowly, start adding the sugar.  As you do this, the mixture will thicken, and get light, light yellow.  Keep going for about five minutes.  You're done when you can take the whisk out, and the batter drops back, sort of folding on itself like a big piece of christmas ribbon.    If you don't see that in five, go for another three.    Now, take the bowl  and add the flour mixture, and use a spatula to fold it in, gently and completely.  Dig to the bottom to make sure everything is incorporated.  This is a slow process, but slow is necessary here. when it's all finished, add that milk/butter/vanilla mixture, and stir it all together.


Get a 9 inch pan, grease it, put down some parchment (don't leave this out), and grease the parchment.  Then add the batter.  Get it into the oven and bake at 350 for 30 minutes.  No longer than that.

While it's  baking, get your berries ready.  Get the little greenies out, and if the berries are small, leave them alone.  If they're slightly large, half them, and big ones get cut into quarters.  You want a good heavy quart, maybe more, of these, and you want a mix of berries of different sizes.  After you've got them cut up, get no more than a quarter cup of sugar, and stir it in , letting the berries macerate  (ok, stop laughing at the word.  It IS funny, the vision of macerating berries, but let's move on).   Don't refrigerate them, even if you're not making the dessert for a few hours.  Try not to prepare them more than about 3  hours before dessert time though.  The sugar crystals will pull some of the juice out of the berries, but they will remain essentially integral.


Now, let's talk about the cream portion.  You've probably had  strawberry shortcake with whipped cream, or just thick sweetened cream, or maybe some ice cream.  All good.   But try this one:  put a cup of creme fraiche into a bowl, and add a third of a cup of heavy cream, together with two tablespoons of sugar.  Whip the stuff up together.  The creme fraiche gives it some body, and as the cream whips, you will get some fluffiness.  There is a tartness here that Annalena loves.  If the tart aspect does not appeal to  you, then you can switch to mascarpone instead, or just go with whipped cream.  It's all good.

When you're ready to serve the cake, if you have some (left over, for example, from candying the stuff), use ginger syrup to brush on the cake.  You do this by slicing it in half, horizontally.  Do the best job you can, and use a serrated knife.  It works best.  Then brush the syrup on the cut sides.  If you don't feel that ambitious, just pour some over the cake. It's porous, and it will accept it gladly.

Then cut the size slice  you want (Annalena bets you cut a bigger slice than you can eat), put plenty of strawberries, and plenty of the whipped stuff of your choice on the plate, and dig in.  And smile.

THIS, ragazzi, is SUMMERTIME in a bowl.  Actually, let's call it EARLY summertime in a bowl, because later in summer, Annalena wants you to do the same thing, but with peaches.  Or berries.  Or, as summer is drawing to a close, with plums.

Lets get busy ragazzi.  This sounds harder than it is.  Make it for folks you love.  Seriously.    They will love you for it.  And Annalena guarantees: you will NEVER have a plate of strawberry shortcake in a restaurant as good as this.

Sunday, June 9, 2013

Light, easy, vegan, seasonal, and all the good stuff: asparagus and cannelini bean salad.

Annalena has repeated this so often you all must be tired of hearing it:  she looks for recipes and inspiration wherever she can find it.  Also, she has said this so often that you must be tired of it, but it's important: If  you see a recipe you like, but think you can make a change, know when you CAN make one, and when  you can't, and try it, if you can.

For the first of these points, Annalena is an avid reader of Wednesday newspapers, because for reasons that probably no one can figure out, Wednesday is recipe and food day in just about every newspaper in the immediate world.  Sometimes, she finds a good one, sometimes, she finds none.  This week, she found three!  And this is one of them,  which also plays into where you CAN make a change (which Annalena did).    Another one, which will follow, is one where you CAN'T make changes.   The second one is a cake recipe, and changing that one will lead to disaster.  Annalena guarantees that.

So, this recipe is something that is called a "salad," but is really better called a light, satisfying meal.  The Guyman and Annalena ate it for their Sunday lunch, in advance of what will probably be a heavy dinner.  It was surprisingly satisfying.  And also, ridiculously easy.  The way Annalena makes it, she assumes that you have been good children, and have cooked dry beans, and frozen quantities of them.  If you haven't, even though the recipe says you can use canned beans, Annalena refuses to do so.  Asparagus have such a light, pleasant taste, they deserve the freshness that comes from fresh cooked dried beans (indeed , if you are using a high quality product - Annalena uses Rancho Gordo), the beans will taste very fresh.    And if you need a "refresher" in cooking dried beans, get in touch with Annalena. Send an email, give a return address, and she will explain.

Ok, on the assumption that you have them, you will need 2-3 cups of cooked cannelini, or other white beans.  You can use whatever you have handy, but the colors here are such that the white ones really look beautiful.  Put them aside, while you assemble the other ingredients.

You will need a pound of fresh asparagus.  Cut the tough part off at the bottom (you will wind up with somewhere between 9 and 12 ounces of usable vegetable).  Get a pot of salted water to the boil, and drop in the asparagus.  Let them cook for - Annalena is not kidding here - 90 seconds.  Pull em out, and let them drain and cool, while you make the dressing.

And here is where you can play, ragazzi.  The original recipe called  for half a cup of fresh tarragon.  Annalena likes tarragon, to a degree.  Indeed, she has made her peace with it. Half a cup?  With asparagus? Didn't seem right.  So Annalena switched out dill and upped the herbs: 3/4 cup of dill, and 3/4 cup of fresh parsley - the Italian varieity.    This is a place where you can switch things around.  To Annalena, the taste of dill, and the parsley, was such that they seemed to scream SPRING,  so that's what she used.

Put them in a food processor, with the juice of a lemon (you could use a lime if you like, or some vinegar), and a bit of the lemon peel.  Maybe 2-3 big strips.  Also add either 2 cloves of dried garlic bulb, or half a bulb of a green garlic bulb, peeled (which is what Annalena did).  Add a good pinch of salt , and note that you'll probably be adding more.  Finally, have half a cup of your best quality olive oil handy. Again, you may very well shift here.  Walnut oil works with asparagus, so does avocado oil, and if you are leery of your olive oil, you could do this with vegetable oil as well, given how many flavor elements you have.    As the processor does its dirty work, start pouring in the oil.  You'll get a thick, green colored emulsion.  Taste it, and correct the salt if you need to (which you probably will.  ). Pour all that dressing into a bowl, and add your white beans.

Get your asparagus out, and cut them , preferably on the diagonal, into half inch pieces.  Toss those in too, and toss the whole thing around.

Trust Annalena on this:  this "salad" is much more satisfying than you may think. But if you have your doubts, feel free to add some cooked baby potatoes, or some sharp cheese, or even shrimp/crab/scallops.  For the scallops,  you may want to experiment with ceviche.

Now, if you have your beans cooked, you can put this together in 20 minutes, and it's a worthy lunch.  Go for it ragazzi.  Asparagus are still here, but it's June, and they won't be for long.  Enjoy em while you can.

And next time around:  if it's spring, can strawberry shortcake be far behind?  Well, yes, because we'll be making strawberry SPONGE cake.

Alla prossima

Friday, June 7, 2013

Annalena goes Mexican: fish tacos with strawberry salsa

Carini, you know that we stick to the Mediterranean end of things here, be it southern French, Italian, or whatever we do.  Yes, this is where  Annalena's background and heart lie.  But you have seen forays into Asian cooking and Spanish cooking, and occasionally,  Mexican cooking. Well, we're going back to Mexico today, for a dish that turns out to be remarkably light in calories.  It doesn't seem it, but it is.  And strawberry salsa?  Did you read that correctly?  Yes, you did.  And it's good.  You should master it.

Annalena has a thing for fish tacos.  And it's hard to get good ones. REALLY difficult.  During her recent trip to San Francisco, she had a craving for them, and was all set to order the "halibut ceviche tacos" for dinner at Foreign Cinema, when Daddy P brought out a plate of them on the house.

Well, Annalena will not turn away from the blandishments of Daddy P, nor will she say "no thank you, I intended to buy them."  Of course, she was somewhat reluctant to share them with the Guyman, but that's what marriage is about isn't it?

Let's leave that question hanging.  So, with the thought of fish tacos in her mind as she came back, but with no clear vision toward making them, Annalena received what she takes as a sign.  She was watching one of those "can this restaurant be saved?"  type of shows, and the "star" dish of the kitchen was the fish taco.  Well, apparently, its star did not burn bright, as the repair person (Tabitha), brought in one of Annalena's favorite people, Susan Feniger, to improve the recipe.  Annalena watched very closely, and took from it, among other things,  "season at every step."

Yes, ragazzi, memorize that phrase.  If you make your dish and salt it at the end, you will get a dish that is both salty and underseasoned.  Trust Annalena on this one, you must season each ingredient, and at each step.

Now , that was a digression, but a valuable one.  Anyway,  Annalena began looking for fish taco recipes.  She found one, which used strawberry salsa, and this caught her eye.  Strawberries and fish?  Sounds odd.  But it is good.  And since, at least here in NYC, strawberries are "it" for local fruit, use em while you got em.   Let's make these, and enjoy the fact that each taco has only about 120 calories in it.    And you'll be able to make 9 with this recipe.

First, let's make the salsa, which you could easily use with something  else.  You will need a quart (2 pints) of ripe strawberries.  Chop them, after you've taken the green thing off, and add a chopped jalapeno pepper.  If you like things spicy, add more, or use the veins of the pepper.  Annalena did this in her food processor, which saved a whole lot of time.  Add a pinch of salt, a handful of chopped chives, and the juice of one lime  (not a lemon, as the recipe says.  Lime is more authentic).  Taste this, and if you want to adjust the seasoning, go ahead.  This is one that is open to interpretation.

Now, to our fish and tacos.  Preheat your oven to 450.  Your fish should be of the white type, skinless, or with edible skin.  Annalena's recipe called for halibut.  She had her favorite, black sea bass, which has an edible skin and that's what she used.  You need a good pound and a quarter or so of fillets.  Brush some olive oil on the baking sheet, and put your fish, skin side down (if it has skin), or smooth side down (if it doesn't), on the pan.  Sprinkle salt, and about half a teaspoon of ground cumin over the fish.  Again, you can vary the spice if you like.  Want chili powder?  Go ahead.  Or maybe something else? Yours to call.   Bake the fish for about fifteen minutes.

For the tortillas: you need the corn ones, the SMALL ones.  Not the huge ones that look like small tables.  If you want to cut your calories as much as you can, stack these  tortillas, sprinkle some water on the one on the top, wrap them in foil, and let them steam as the fish bakes.

OR, as Annalena did, get a nonstick pan, add two tablespoons of olive oil, and just let the tortillas cook on each side, for less than a minute.  All you are doing is warming them, really.  To Annalena's taste, this little "fry" step is very authentic, and adds flavor.   And as always, start with the best tortillas you can find (Annalena had brought some back from San Francisco, made by Rancho Gordo.  Would that she could get them here...).  Put them on paper towels to drain a bit.

Finally, chop up about two cups of some sturdy, light green leafy vegetable.  That can be Chinese cabbage, or romaine, or something like that.  You could also mix it your greens with watercress, or another cress, just as long as it's leafy, and soft.

By now, your fish is ready.  Take it out of the oven, and get a fork.  Just "scramble" it into pieces.    And we're ready to assemble our tacos.

Put a tortilla on a plate, and add a handful of greens.  Not that much.  Remember: 9 tortillas, two cups of greens:  if you've been generous with the greens, you'll have a quarter cup each.   Then, a bit of the fish.  If you do this one ingredient at a time,  you can be skimpy with fish, and then if you have some left over, distribute it at the end.  Finally, a nice spoonful of the salsa.  You'll have extra.  Put it at the side for those, like Annalena, who want more.

Take a look at that recipe, ragazzi. Where did we add fat? IF you do Annalena's frying step, you've added less than 2 tablespoons of olive oil to the finished dish.  No fat in the fish, no fat in the salsa.

Pretty healthy, huh?  Give it a try.  Annalena's favorite Mexican chef Sue Torres gave this her thumbs up.  What more can you ask for?

Tuesday, June 4, 2013

Getting what you knead: oatmeal bread

Ragazzi, don't say that Annalena didn't warn you that we were going to be making bread.  And indeed, we are.  Because, carini, if you cannot make a decent loaf of bread, you cannot fairly call yourself a cook. PERIOD.  There.  She said it.  You don't have to be able to turn out brioche that float, nor croissants that crackle under your teeth.  Nor do you have to make sourdough to rival your favorite from San  Francisco.   But you DO have to be able to bake bread.  And this is a good one.  No, strike that.  It's a REALLY good one.  And it's very good for you.  Also, as far as bread baking goes, it's easy, and you can take your time with it.  In fact, you must.    And so, we begin.

Some of you are big fans of oatmeal, and if you are, sometimes you will have leftover.  You should save it for this.  Or, make some extra, and then use it.  The bottom line, is that you are going to need two cups of cooked oats.  NOT the instant crap, not the microwaveable nonsense, but good, old fashioned, rolled oats.  If you are like Annalena in that you do not eat oatmeal for breakfast (actually she does, but not without enough butter, nuts and raisins to turn it into a dessert pastry), take a cup of raw oats, and pour two cups of boiling water over it.  Then, let it sit overnight.  You don't need to refrigerate it this way, because all you need to do is get them cooked, and at room temperature.

When the oats are ready, put them in a bowl with an additional half cup of water.  Add a tablespoon of yeast, and then a cup each of white flour and whole wheat flour.  Stir this all up togther, and go away for a couple of hours.   You're making sponge.  You want this to be bubbling slightly, sort of like an oatmeal version of a volcanic lava flow.

When you're there, we finish up.  You're all whole wheat now.  You add a tablespoon of salt, a quarter cup of vegetable oil, three tablespoons of honey, and then at least 2.5 cups of whole wheat flour.  Annalena does her bread in a mixer.  If you use the big stand mixer, you will work this for eight minutes.  If you are doing it by hand, then you're going to need closer to 12.  In either case, have an extra cup of flour ready, in case things are too wet and too sticky (sometimes, things ARE too wet and too sticky, and other times...).  As the bread dough sticks, add more flour, by sprinkles, or quarter cups.  You really shouldn't need to add more than an additional half cup of flour.  

Now let this rest for , oh, about another two, maybe three hours.  At the end of that time, lightly oil two 8x4 inch baking pans.  This bread really is too wet to use as a round loaf, so do use the pans, otherwise you will have oatmeal pancakes.   Divide the dough, put it in the pans, and go away, again, for about an hour and a half.  Sometime during that last wait, turn your oven to 375.

The dough will crest over the pans,  and that's what you want.  Put the pans into the oven and bake for 30-35 minutes.  You can test the bread by putting a straw down the middle, if you don't mind the hole mark in your bread.  The crumb here is moist, so some will adhere to the straw.  Or just trust your sense of color and smell.  The bread is ready when it SMELLS ready.

When you take it out of the oven, let it sit for five minutes, and then tip it out of the pan.  If you used enough oil, or other grease, it will 'plop' right out.  Then let it sit on a rack until it's cool.  Seriously, don't eat this until it has completely cooled, because there's a lot of heat and water to get out of the bread.

Yes, this took a lot of time, but ultimately, it involved somewhere between 15 and 20 minutes worth of work. That's what bread baking is like, ragazzi. It is very rewarding.  Annalena commends you to it.  Go and make your staff of life, and you may never buy bread again.

Saturday, June 1, 2013

Have it your way: a sorbet or a smoothie: strawberry rhubarb

AH, now THAT title got your attention, didn't it?  There are some of you out there who LOVE smoothies.  Really, really do.  For you, it's breakfast, dessert,  a snack, etc.

Truth to be told, Annalena cannot stand them. That does not mean they are not good, not at all.  They are simply not to her taste.  At all.  BUT... as she was making the basis for a spring sorbet (it is NOT summer yet ragazzi, even if it is 90 degrees.   There are no field tomatoes, and everyone knows, THAT's when summer starts), she began thinking of her smoothie guzzling friends, and in fact, tasted the product on the way to sorbet and thought "yup, this could work."  So here we go . It's seasonal, it's tasty, and while you will be using your food processor - and a pot - you will be making a LOT , and you'd be using your blender instead, so....


Nothing says spring to Annalena more than rhubarb and strawberry.  She tries to use them as much as possible.  This is not a problem with strawberries. Rhubarb is a little more challenging.  Those of you who have tried it know of its extreme acidity.  Even those of us who like very sour things, can find rhubarb "unabridged" a challenge.  Annalena was planning to use some that she had, to make a savory chutney later this week, but... the sorbet bug bit her.

And indeed,  she was thinking of smoothies also, because of the twisted way her mind works. See, the recipe she worked with called the dessert "sherbet."  Annalena grew up learning, and confirmed, that sherbet has a dairy product in it.  Sorbet does not.  Her recipe had no dairy in it.  It's a sorbet.  But IF it had dairy, well.. and she thought real hard of putting in yogurt and turning it into smoothies.    Maybe next time, but probably not.  You smoothie drinkers/eaters, however, take note.

Ok, enough blather.  Let's get to work.  You need a healthy pound of fresh rhubarb.  You'll want to cut off the gunky ends and leave as much good stuff as you can.  Then, put the pound of it in the food processor with a quarter cup of water, and grind it up.  It will go fine, but it will not go to juice.    When you have that, put the ground rhubarb into a pot, cover it, and cook it, at LOW heat for fifteen minutes.  More juice will come off of it.

While your rhubarb is cooking, hull about a quart of strawberries.  It won't take all that long, and you don't have to cut them up.  Put those in the unwashed food processor, and puree them.  VERY easy.

Here's where you have to start making decisions, ragazzi.  If you are making sorbet, there's no decision to make.  Put two cups of sugar into the rhubarb, mix it all together, and put it in the food processor with the strawberries.  Spin away, and taste.  If  your rhubarb was exceptionally tart, you'll need more, and now's the time . Always keep in mind that a frozen dessert will taste less sweet than an unfrozen one, so err on the side of sweet.

If, however, you've decided to go the smoothie route, now you have to be careful with the sugar, because two cups will be very, VERY sweet.  Annalena suggests you start with one. Blend it into the fruit with a cup of yogurt (plain, of your preferred degree of fat content), and then taste it.  While it's still warm, add sugar to your desired level of sweetness.  A squirt of orange juice won't hurt.

It's warm at this point, and if you like a warm smoothie, go for it.  Or, refrigerate it until you're ready to drink it down.  You will get about two quarts of this with the yogurt, so you'll be drinking a bit of it, or sharing it.  If you go the sorbet route, cool it, and then use your machine.  You'll get about a quart and a half.

Yes, the sugar adds calories, for sure.  But if you're making dessert.... DUH.  If you're looking for a healthy, seasonal smoothie, you control your destiny here.  So get to it.  And let's hear from you.  Did any of you make the smoothie?  Did you like it?  Tell us.  All of us have inquiring minds.

Next time around, roll up your sleeves and get out the elbow grease, because we're going to bake some bread

Friday, May 31, 2013

Crab cakes: easier than you think, and maybe not cheaper

Ragazzi, Annalena is back from her annual excursion.  Oh, so much to tell.  To tell here, however, is that sadly, the food this time around very much underwhelmed her.  In the past, where Annalena lives, you would have seen one rave of a restaurant after another.  Not so, this year.  Perhaps 4 or 5 of the 12 have raves from Annalena.  The rest - to use  a word she favors - meh.  But the vacation itself, ragazzzi, was wonderful. One of the best.  You really must go if you haven't.

Now, let us turn to the matter at hand:  crab cakes.  Can we see a show of hands:  how many of you love them?

MMM  HMMM.  Just as Annalena thought.  And how many of you MAKE them?    Mmmm hmmm.  Again, as Annalena thought.  Truth to be told, Annalena had stopped making them herself because she would screw them up every single time.  And crab meat, carini, is expensive.  It is  WICKED expensive.  This is why you will frequently be disappointed when you buy crab cakes that are prepared and bring them home... they are all filler and no crab.  OR, you won't buy them, because they are HOW MUCH each?    So too, in restaurants, when you might get one as an appetizer, for 15.00 (if you are lucky), or 2 for 27, and find yourself still hungry.

Getting crab meat is very labor intensive.  And crabs do not yield much meat.  As far as Annalena knows, the dungeness crab, which averages about 2-2.5 pounds each, will yield about half a pound of meat if it's picked over very well.  Each of us can put away that much crab in a plate of crab cakes, without problem.  One day, sit with a big, cooked crab, and try to get out the meat.  Now, for those of you who are going to say   "but I always feel full after a crab boil," remember two things:  one, you are laughing, talking, having a good time when you go to one of these, and... melted butter?  On your fingers?  FILLING!!!!

So, ok, why should we make crab cakes?  Well, that is like asking why should we breathe?  Crab is sweet, and tasty, but is not a strong flavor.  You can make crab cakes carry any flavor you like.  For example, Annalena finds that most of the ones she gets outside, have a hot spicy flavor.  This is something she does not want in her crabcakes:  she wants the sweet flavor, perhaps with a bit of a green note, and that is it.  Each of you will have your own particular take on how you like them.  And you can make them the way you like them, as Annalena will explain.

She would also like to thank Nadia G, who made them on her show once, and was an inspiration.  Annalena learned so much about these from that show, she should have made them sooner.

Ok, so let's get to work.  You start with a pound of crab meat.  Frankly, whatever you can afford, is what you should use.  Annalena has a ton of frozen dungeness crabmeat on hand, which she used.  You can use lump, backfin, whatever you can get.  Most recipes are going to tell you to pick it over to remove shells.  Again, if you are worried, do, but Annalena has only one experience of finding a shell in her crab meat.

In order to get these buggers to hold together, they are going to need a binder.  Here,  Annalena used about a third of a pound of cooked, cooled potatoes, that she had mashed roughly.  She recommends this.  Remember that when you cook potatoes, you should always cook extra.    Also add one large egg, and half a cup of an unflavored breadcrumb.  Panko is particularly good here.  Annalena adds a good half cup of choopped parsley, and a squirt of honey mustard.  Use the herbs you like, or not at all, and the flavorings as well.  Here, you have freedom.  Taste, however, and see if you need salt.  Sometimes your crab meat will be salty, and sometimes it will not be.  Mix this all up evenly.


Get a baking tray, or a large plate ready, and cover it with more of your breadcrumbs/panko.  Get your hands into the mix, and work it gently ("Gently" is key here).  Take a good handful of the stuff, and shape it without packing it.  Make a ball of some size, but don't get too crazy.  You're going to be making eight of them.  After you make each one, coat them in the extra breacrumbs, and put them on another plate.  (This is more fun than you might think).

Here comes the key to success:  put the finished cakes in the fridge, for at least 3 hours.  Overnight if you can.  This helps them to cohere a bit, and frying them when cold, will prevent some break up.    To cook them, put about a quarter cup of vegetable oil in a  non stick pan, and when it's hot, add four of them.

Keep in mind that the only thing here that isn't already cooked is the egg, so you don't need much cooking time.   Maybe 3 minutes to a side, over medium heat.  Move the cooked cakes to a paper towel to drain fat, and repeat with the last four.

If you have made fat, small ones, you may want to put these in the oven for about ten minutes, at 325 or so, because the crab at the center will not necessarily warm up enough for you.    But they're ready.  You can make your own tartar sauce, or just use slices of lemon or, as Annalena has discovered, something like mango salsa works really well too.   Indeed, this is a place to use some of those sweet sauces someone gave you that you have no idea what to do with.

This meal will not be cheap.  It may, in fact, be more than you're used to spending on crab cakes when you buy them outside.  But try it once and then ask yourself:  was it better?  Annalena thinks you will agree it was, and it is not much work.