A few weeks ago, my friend Peter (one of the three amazing young ones in my life right now), asked me what is the most important thing in my life. It was not a hard question to answer. If we are both in town, which is most of the time, the single most important thing in my life is sitting down to a meal with my partner at night. Sometimes we talk, sometimes we don't. But whether we do or not, and regardless of the mood, there is a magic in the air that is not sexual, not sensual, but spiritual.
"There is more than a communion of bodies when bread is broken and wine is drunk" wrote the great MFK Fisher. And indeed, she is right. Trying to put your finger on what it is, is like trying to find out what makes a butterfly so beautiful by taking it apart and examining its parts. Or by taking music apart, note by note, to try to figure out why you like one piece, and not another. So don't try to figure it out. But just compare the experience of sharing a meal with one or more people you truly love, and eating by yourself. You've been there. So , why do we spend so much time eating alone?
I think we're embarrassed. We think that what we put on the table won't be good enough, won't be impressive enough, or our friends won't want to make the trip to spend the time with us. Well, not making the trip every night is ONE thing. Making it once in a while is another. If they're your friends, they will find time. Trust me. And why do you think what you put on the table won't be good enough? If you're insecure about your own abilities, then buy something, put it on the table, and share it. It's the sharing that matters more than anything else. If you ignore every single recipe in this blog, don't ignore this thought : share your meals. Share them whenever you can.
I'm dedicating this thought to another one of the three young ones, Keith. Keith took me to lunch not that long ago. For no reason other than to have lunch together. Nothing romantic (maybe there was. I HATE the fact that 'romantic' has taken on the meaning of sexual, so ok, nothing sexual), just a friendly, chatty lunch. And we're going to do it again.
Keith is taking major steps forward in his life, and I want to help. I don't know how much more I have to offer but friendship and recipes, and so I'm giving a recipe for Keith, who should be cooking for people. No ifs, ands or buts.
This is a recipe that is very simple, and at the same time, very very elegant. Keith is not simple, but he is basic. And he IS elegant, in the truest sense of the word. So Keith, my young friend, this is for you. Try it on yourself, or better yet, try it on me, and then go forward. I think you'll enjoy it.
You need a fillet or other nice sized piece of a white fleshed fish. I used pollack, but you could use cod, or monkfish, or anything like that. Salt it on both sides. Get a big pot filled with about an inch or two of water, and then put a steamer basket into it. If you don't have a steamer basket, use anything flat that will hold your fish. And if you're doing it for a lot of people, do it in batches. Put a lid over the pot, lower the heat, and let it go for about 8 minutes.
While that is happening, make your sauce. You need about a quarter cup of citrus juice. I had yuzus in the house from the Citrus gang, but they are not a staple of stores everywhere. Use lemon juice, use orange juice, or be more creative and use grapefruit juice or tangerine (Keith, you should use tangerine or clementine or something like that. It wil suit you). Get that juice into a small sauce pan, and bring it to a simmer. Then, start adding six tablespoons of unsalted butter, little by little, waiting until each piece melts until you add the next one. Taste it, and season it.
Plate the fish, and don't worry if it breaks apart. You're with friends, remember? Then spoon some of the sauce over each portion.
There's a main course you can make in fifteen minutes. We had it with couscous (which takes ten minutes out of the box, following the directions), and broccoli sauteed with garlic.
C'mon Keith. Invite me over. I'm there . And congratulations and good luck.
Wednesday, December 12, 2007
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