Getting Annalena's goat, or I cook with it for the first time

One of the "darlings" of chefs who push local, seasonal, sustainable ingredients, is goat meat. There is absolutely nothing new about people eating goat, it's been a staple around the world, for centuries. I remember reading stories from ancient Greece, where a whole roasted goat would be a centerpiece of a banquet. Moving forward in time, my favorite Mexican restaurant, "Suenos," always has goat wrapped in banana leaves as an entree. I never thought of it as more than an "ethnic" food though, which is a sign that yes, Annalena can be somewhat limited in her thinking.

About 2 years ago, Guy and I had Thanksgiving dinner at Savoy restaurant. Savoy, as you've read in these pages, is in fact one of those restaurants that practices the ideas above; however, goat is not a mainstay on their menu. Goat chops were, however, an option as a Thanksgiving entree. Faced with the choices of turkey, striped bass, and goat, I took the latter.

I got a great meal. In talking to the chefs afterward, they told us that goat had a big future in the United States. The meat is very lean, it is easy to raise, it's sustainable, all the buzz words were there.

Well, Annalena hasn't seen goatburgers on the menu of the place around the corner. Even Savoy has not turned it into a regular item. Sue Torres at Suenos keeps the flame burning and it's there on the menu, even as I write this, waiting for you to try it. But I see it almost nowhere else.

The reason for that may be the same reason that I had avoided it: try to find ways to cook it. You won't find much. You will find Mexican "ethnic" recipes, and things like that, but that is about it. Looking for general ways to cook it, I found the same instructions: "just treat it like lamb."

Uh, but it's not lamb. So, finally, the "lock in the key" happened. I was talking with my friend Chris, who runs a farm where the specialty is cheese, goat and cow's milk varieties, and who also sells veal from time to time. Veal is not an item that is available all the time, and he started bringing goat meat. I told him of my confusion and his prescription was "just treat it like lamb but add more fat." When I rolled my eyes tand told him that was what everyone said, and it really wasn't helpful, his reply was "well, buy some, try it, and if you don't like it, tell me and we'll work something out.


Now THAT is a good businessman. I took home 4 pounds of stew meat, and made the dish I describe below.

I guess it was good. I made it at New Year's and I never got a taste. It was GONE. So, a few weeks later, I did it again, this time at a Board Meeting for my buddies at Uptown Express.

There is no question about it: for some of us, you have to get over the idea that you are eating "goat." One gentleman tasted politely and pushed the rest away. Another did a bit better, but everyone else cleared their plates. And I cleared mine.

This is a "work in progress," as Annalena learns more about the product. For now, however, here is a good recipe, adapted from one for lamb. Try it. It's really tasty.

You start with 1/2 pound of dried apricots. I can get them chopped up already, but if you can't, do a rough chop. It won't take that long. If they are particularly leathery, put them under hot water for an hour after you've cut them.

Meanwhile, salt and pepper about 3 pounds of cubed goat meat, and then cover a big pan with olive oil. Get it hot, and brown the meat in batches, the same way you would brown any stew meat. Don't cheat on time, because this is what is going to give your stew flavor. Brown the pieces thoroughly, and then add more. If you run out of oil, just replenish it. When you're done, pour off all but a few tablespoons of the fat, and saute' 2 large onions that you've chopped. When they soften (probably about 5 minutes), add the meat back, together with a good hefty tablespoon of fresh ginger, a hefty teaspoon of ground coriander, and the same amount of cinnamon. Also, add some saffron. The recipe I have calls for 1/4 teaspoon. If you can be, be more generous with this. STir this all up, and add some stock, to cover the meat. Beef stock is best, chicken works, and water will do. Cover the pan, lower the heat, and cook for a half hour (incidentally, you can do this in a big Creuset pot, and that may be better).

After the half hour, drain the apricots if they were soaking, and add them to the meat. Lower the heat further, cover the pot, and simmer for an hour. If the liquid goes down, add some of the apricot water if you have it, or more stock, or just plain water.

When making this dish with lamb, you have to skim the fat as it comes to the surface. The goat IS leaner, so you won't have to do it. Check it after that hour of cooking for tenderness. If it's not as soft as you would like, keep on cooking until it is.

The liquid almost evaporates from this, and the apricots fall apart a little, but they keep their shape. Taste it. You will definitely want to add salt, and some pepper. The apricots put a fair amount of sweetness into the dish, so if you find it too sweet, squeeze the juice from half a lemon into it (off the heat), and taste. Add more if you need to.

This is going to serve at least 6 people, and it tastes better with a day's rest, like all stews do.

Just when you thought you had tasted everything along comes Annalena with something new. Try it. I bet if you don't tell people it's goat, they'll ask for second helpings.