Thursday, June 17, 2010

La tagliata

No cutesy title here, just the name of what is truly one of the most wonderful classics I have ever eaten.
"Tagliata" means "cut" or sliced. You'd think it were just an adjective, but with the "La" in front of it, we're talking a noun. "Sliced steak" is what comes to mind, first, but that just does not do the dish justice, although when you get right down to it, that's what it is, in the same way "coq au vin" is chicken in red wine.
Tagliata is one of those dishes that every Italian knows how to make, even if they all make it differently. It is not an everyday dish. This one is going to cost a fair piece of money: plan on forking over about 100 bucks if you're going to serve six. It's a very easy dish to make, and very flavorful. I had forgotten it, until we had it at Zuni Cafe' during our recent visit. And here we go.
You need to buy higher end steaks for this: tenderloin, strip, rib eye, something that is very tender and very marbled. For four people, you need about 24 ounces, that is, about a pound and a half. In fact, you should not make this with anything that is less than a pound or so. The bigger the piece of beef you can get, the better. In Italy, they would use a 2.5 pound steak, something like a T-bone. American style T-bone won't really work here, because the animals are different. Get a really thick ribeye, or a couple of them, or strip, or a nice cut of tenderloin.

For a pound and a half, or for that matter, up to 2.5 pounds of beef, mix a quarter cup of balsamic vinegar (NOT the ancient stuff), with half as much olive oil, and then abundant, chopped rosemary (you can change the herbs if you like.). Put the beef into the mixture, turn it, and let it sit at room temperature for at least an hour, and no more than 3 (the tender cuts you're going to use will begin to disintegrate in the acid for more time than that). When you're ready to cook, heat up a stove top grill and also heat up your oven to 350. If you're using grassfed beef - and you should be at this point - don't ever go higher than that temperature. Rub the grill with olive oil, and also sprinkle a LOT of freshly ground pepper over the steak, on both sides (2 tablespoons is not too much), and a talespoon of salt. When the grill is hot, sear the meat on both sides. You'll need about 2-3 minutes per side. The vinegar carmelizes, the salt and pepper get into the meat, and it will look quite wonderful.

If, like yours truly, you like your steak "black and blue," you can eat it now, especially if the cut is one that weighs in at about a pound. If you like a more cooked meat, or the cut is bigger, you're going to need to roast it, for about 30 minutes. Instead of laying it down flat, lay it on its side. Again, if you're using more than one, smaller piece, lay THEM on their sides.

I would check the meat after 20 minutes, to make sure it isn't overcooking. If after 3, it's too red for you, cook it longer. It's that simple. In any event, when you've finished cooking it, let it rest for ten minutes, then...


YOU GUESSED IT. SLICE IT. Juices will run out and that's your sauce.

Plan on a starting portion of about 6 ounces per person, although you may find that you need less. This is very flavorful, and the mouthfeel is wonderful. It deserves a very good red wine with it.

You won't make this everyday, but if you have an "everyday celebration" coming up, this is one to go with.

No comments: