A holiday biscotti recipe: dried cranberries and pistachio

Every year, in what can only be described as a fit of madness, I make thousands of holiday cookies. Different flavors, textures, types, origins. They vary from year to year, but some are pretty constant. This is one of them.

If you think about it, it makes sense. Green from pistachios, red from cranberries. What makes it very appealing to me, is the absence of butterfat in the cookie, because let's face it: we all eat too many bad, butter cookies during the holiday season. They are INEVITABLE. But we all want "something" when we're sitting down to coffee, or to a sweet drink , or just to nibble on. And the salty element, from the pistachios, is "just enough" to keep these guys from being cloying.

I have written in the past about the differences between American style and Italian style biscotti. These are DEFINITELY Italian style: dry, not so sweet, and with flavor that isn't all sweet. Alas and alack, it does seem that Italy is going the way of the good ole' USA. This recipe, as written, makes 36 cookies. The way I make them, it makes about 80. And that's a-ok. Smaller is sometimes better and, when you're looking at an array of different cookies, with different flavors, you do want to be able to try as many as possible, without feeling guilty, don't you?

Well, I do.

This is an adaptation of a recipe from the remarkable Carol Field, who has taught so many of us how to do authentic Italian baking. Her 8 hour panettone is a staple in the house at the holiday time, even if it DOES take 8 hours to make. And many of her bread recipes grace our everyday table. One day, I will master her pan pugliese and ciabatta recipes. For now, though, let's make some cookies.


You need 1/4 pound of dried cranberries. Ms. Field suggests soaking them in hot water for five minutes, draining and drying. I don't bother. You also need a cup of shelled pistachios. I use salted ones. Three large eggs. Dry ingredients are 2.5 cups of all purpose flour, a cup of sugar, a half teaspoon of each of baking soda, baking powder, and salt. You also need a teaspoon of vanilla.

In a mixer, with the paddle, blend the dry ingredients together, and then add the eggs, one at a time, and the vanilla. Then stir in the fruit and nuts.

Every time I make this recipe, I find it too dry, and add a quarter cup or so of liquid. You know how to judge, so keep your eye on it.

Ms Field suggests dividing the dough in halves. I do it by thirds, and then roll the dough out to a 13 inch log. Brush each log with a wash of one egg mixed with a tablespoon of water, and if you like, sprinkle some raw sugar on them. Bake these at 325 for 30 minutes. Ms. Field says you can get away with cooling for ten minutes. I let them cool at least half an hour, usually more. She then cuts each log into 3/4 inch slices on a diagonal. Mine are much smaller . Then, put the slices back in the oven and let them bake at 325 for 10 minutes, before you turn them over and bake them again, also for ten minutes. (I don't do this, because mine are so small. I just put them on baking sheets, close the oven which I've preheated and then turned off, and come back in 15 minutes. The preheat is to 325).

Ms Field cuts each log into 18 slices. I get closer to 30 out of each of mine, because I think the smaller cookies are better, especially in an assortment. It works either way.

Try em, and let me know how they turn out. Incidentally, you should feel free to start playing with this recipe and changing things. Cherry and pistachio? For sure? But don't forget about the relationship between apricot and almonds. Or, maybe get a little fancy and try some chopped macadamia nuts and some dried pineapple.. That is a bit too off the wall for the very traditional Annalena, but if you are so inclined, go for it. That's what cooking is all about.