When the mushroom man doesn't show up: pot roast with white herb gravy

The Farmers Market is filled with characters, Annalena included. So, too, with the farmers. In fact, one of the more enjoyable features of the market is getting to know the various farmers, and either "bonding," or not. It's a good way of determining where you'll shop. For example, if I need "perfect" white peaches, I know where I'm going and the farmers are not warm and fuzzy. On the other hand, if I need "good" white peaches, there are three or four farmers with whom Annalena has good relationships, and I'll go to them.

And then there are some vendors who are "sui generis." They are the only ones who supply a particular item. Either you deal with them, or you go without. One such vendor is Michael, who is a forager, and sells wild mushrooms in season. At this time of year, he is selling tons and tons of Annalena's favorite mushroom, the chanterelle.

Except when he's not. See, Michael only comes on Wednesday, and he only comes when he has product, and he only comes if he feels like it. Sometimes he doesn't feel like it because of what he has drunk the night before. Sometimes his truck breaks down, and sometimes, well, he's just not there.

So, if, as was the case with Annalena, you were planning on making a chanterelle gravy to serve with your pasta, and there are no chanterelles, you have to do some quick thinking. This is the story of that quick thinking, and I want you to get into this habit.

Annalena had made a pot roast over the weekend: a small one of about 3 pounds. You can find the recipe by searching "stracotto" on this blog. Pot roast NEEDS a gravy. The meat has been cooked for a very, VERY long time, and it is chewy and delicious, but it IS dry. Traditionally, there's a brown gravy on pot roast, but not always.

Italians are not big on gravy or sauces. "Gravy" to Italians is what you other folks call tomato sauce. We usually serve our meat with just its juices. So gravy making is not inherent in our blood, the way it may be for some other people. So, every time Annalena makes a gravy, it's a new effort. This one, much to my delight was wonderful. And easy. SOOOOO easy. And so good. Here's what ya do.

You start with 6 tablespoons of unsalted butter, 1/3 cup of flour (which is just about the same quantity of butter), and milk. At least two cups. You will probably need more. And about two tablespoons of your favorite herbs, soft ones, chopped. I used oregano, thyme, a bit of spicy basil.

Melt the butter in a big pot. Try not to brown it, but you may wind up with soem browning anyway. That's ok. Now, add the flour and whisk it. COok it for a few minutes. You won't need more than five. You'll get bubbling and a thickening.

Now, get your milk. Start with two cups and add it gradually. It will sizzle and bubble, and everything will clump. You will be convinced you have done something wrong. You have not. This is how it works. And after the two cups of milk have been poured in, carefully, you will see a smoothing out. It will probably be thick, and at this point, you will want to add some more milk, and half the herbs. Also, season this, because you have no salt in the mix at all. Taste it, but be careful. It is WICKED hot . You may also wish to add some pepper, but that will destroy the white color of the gravy. Just know that ahead of time.

If your gravy is still too thick for you, you can add more milk, but I added a slug of white wine, and stirred it until I had the consistency I wanted. This was a good move, as it added an acidic "zing" to the gravy which lemon could have done, but really wasn't an option because it would have curdled the milk.

When your gravy is at the thickness you like, add the remaining herbs, stir them in, take the gravy off the heat and, after slicing your pot roast, just put it in the pot.

This is GOOD. There are other gravies that will go with this. My little brother Gatto is proud of his red eye gravy, and most of the other ones that are known are thick, brown sauces, sometimes with mushrooms (if you can find them). This one is a bit lighter than the mushroom versions. Give it a try. Try it on something else too. And let Annalena know how you like it and if you use it for something else.