When the wolf comes to the door, sort of: tortilla espanola

I've never quite understood that expression: "when the wolf comes to the door." It means , I guess, that you're broke. Well, ok, but why would a wolf come knocking when you're poor, and probably starving? These are things which puzzle Annalena, but of which she has very little time to address or investigate. If you know, do tell. Otherwise, let's cook.

The Wolf at the door came to mind when making this recipe. We ate this often when Annalena was a youngster. The ingredients: olive oil, eggs, potatoes, and onions, are inexpensive.

Now, ragazzi, lest you raise your eyes at the olive oil, remember this was in the days before designer olive oils, extra virgin, artisanal, single olive pressings, etc, etc. Annalena's Nana bought her olive oil in huge two gallon tins. It was not very good olive oil, and the smell of it when Nana cooked would frequently make Annalena feel somewhat nauseous. She was not very fond of this dish either, which as I say, was on the table often - maybe once a week.

Learning, years later, that this was a classic of the Spanish tapas table, was interesting to Annalena. And to learn that people argue over the correct way to prepare it. Yes, I can see that: what type of potato. What type of onion. How many onions to use. How do you beat the eggs. Do you add seasonings?

Annalena's Nana would say "and when you fret, people get hungry." So, lest more wolves come to the door, let's make a tortilla espanola, or as you may want to call if if you are so inclined , potato omelet, or just "taters and eggs."

This recipe comes from a woman who was at least for a long time, the United States' greatest authority on Iberian food. And a homophobe. Annalena was shocked at her rudeness, her nastiness, her overall obnoxious behavior. As I have written, cooks are nice people. Cookbook writers are nice people. This "lady," was neither. The recipe is good. So, while you're waiting for the wolf to come to the door, separate the wheat from the chaff, take the recipe, and leave the witch behind.

Let us cook. You need half a cup of olive oil, a pound of potatoes, an onion, and 5 large eggs. Also, salt and pepper. Finally, and this is important, two frying pans. One should be rather wide, and the finish is irrelevant. The other should be non stick, and probably at least 8 inches across.

Peel the potatoes. I stick to my favorite yukon golds, but use any potato you have, even boilers. Cut them into slices about a quarter inch thick. Then, peel and slice your onion. Sprinkle salt on them.

Pour the olive oil into the wide pot - the one that need not be nonstick, and when it is hot, add the potatoes and onions, and lower the heat. Every three minutes or so, turn them carefully. The technique you are using here is similar to the one used when french fries are made, and you use a "first fry/second fry" method. You are flavoring the potatoes, but trying not to brown them.

In the interim, put the eggs into a bowl and beat them with a fork. Put them aside while the potatoes cook.

When they are starting to get soft to a fork, move the potatoes and onions to the eggs. If you have any oil left (I did not have much), save it. Let the mix sit for fifteen minutes, and change pans to the nonstick one. Add a tablespoon or two of oil, either the first one, or clean oil, as you see fit.

Pour the mass into the pan, and at medium heat, cook them for about five minutes or so. Now, for the challenge (I am CERTAIN my Nana did NOT do this.). Get a plate large enough to cover the top of the frying pan. Put it on the top of the pan. Protect your hands with thick pot holders and now, flip it onto the plate. It's not done yet, and if it's a bit messy, worry not. Now, slide the thing back into the pan, cooked side up. Repeat this another two times, so each side cooks, two times. Then, move the mass to a plate and let it cool to room temperature, which is when this is best eaten.

I am told that, in Spain, this is cut into small cubes and served as a snack. We ate it as huge slices, or as sandwich fillings. However you do it, it's a way to keep the wolf from the door.

Provecho.