Saturday, April 21, 2012

Stealing from chefs, just a little: ramp pesto sformato

Ragazzi, you have read Annalena's statements, over and over again, about how she ruthlessly steals from whomever or whatever she thinks has something worth stealing.  BUT... you also know that she also gives credit where it is due.  And here, there is much credit to be given, especially to George and Marco, the "how the hell did they do that" chefs at Hearth restaurant.
Hovering in the recesses and crannies of Annalena's distrubing mind lately, has been the idea of savory pudding.  Perhaps it is because this year  , San Francisco is off the table (fret not, ragazzi, Italy is on the table), that she has been thinking of that time, years ago, when she ate Fog City Diner's garlic custard, and became an immediate fan of such dishes.  Much later, she learned of an Italian dish not much made at home, called "sformato."  "Sformato," simply put, means "molded."  It refers to what is essentially any kind of baked custard in a small portion.   Sort of like crustless quiche.  Generally, Annalena has seen this served as a broccoli or cauliflower based dish: vegetables, cheese, eggs, perhaps a bit of cream, pureed, and then baked.  While Annalena has been known to toss out a souffle or two, she has never done a sformato.

Until today.  And it was inspired by the one served at Hearth.   Ricotta sformato, with grilled ramps and morel mushrooms.  Well, Annalena had ricotta, ramps, and morels in her kitchen.    So she began thinking.  And here is her version.  It is NOT the same as that at Hearth.  Is it better?  Is it not as good?  Let us just say that it is different.

To begin, you need ramp pesto.  You may leave this out if you like, but this is good and it makes the final product a very pretty shade of spring green.  First, you need about half a pound of ramps.  They are all around now, so buy them and use them while you can.  You will also need a cup of walnuts.   Small pieces are fine.  Put the walnuts on a baking sheet, and get them into a 350 oven for five minutes, no longer.  Protect your hands, dump them off the tray and into a bowl.

While they are baking, prep your ramps by cutting off the root ends.  Also, bring a large pot of water to the boil, and then drop the ramps into the water for about thirty seconds.  Pull them out, drain them on some paper towels, and then get your work surface clear.  Cut up the ramps, and put them in the bowl of a food processor with the walnuts.  Start processing, and slowly pour in anywhere from half a cup, to a full cup, of good extra virgin olive oil.  The smaller amount is better, in Annalena's view, but this is a matter of taste.  Add some salt, speaking of a matter of taste.    Now, scoop out about half a cup of that, and clean the rest of it into a container, which you can use for  pasta sauce, on chicken, etc.

Put the half cup of the pesto back into the food processor, together with a pound of GOOD QUALITY (this means NOT the stuff in the big plastic container from the supermarket), which you have drained for about an hour to get extra water off,  two large, or three small eggs, and a half cup of grated parmesan cheese.  Process this to a smooth consistency.  It will be surprisingly  liquid. 

Prep six, 4 ounce ramekins by spraying them with cooking spray, or buttering them, or something along those lines.  Pour the mixture from the blender in them, making sure to distribute it evenly. 

Turn your oven up to 400,  put the critters in the oven (put the ramekins on that baking sheet from the walnuts), and let them bake for 20 minutes or so.  For about ten minutes,  you will think Annalena has steered you wrong.  At 15 minutes, you will be cheering at how smart and how good a cook you are, as the little guys puff up like muffins.  (Don't get too excited about this).  At twenty, remove them from the oven, and let them cool.

Remember how you were advised not to get too excited?  Well, now you know why: those puffy guys have drooped down to a soft, light mass.  And that's okay, because you're going to invert them from the ramekins, and serve them upside down - where the nicely browned, even bottom of the sformato is now on top.

You will want to serve up some nice, cooked vegetables with this.  Maybe a medley of ramps and mushrooms and asparagus (it IS spring, after all), or whatever you like.

This one probably sounds a whole lot harder than it is.  Try it, and let Annalena know how it turns out for you.  Bet you that you become a convert to this style of dish the way  Annalena has.

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