Sunday, June 10, 2012

Savoring the simple: pureed asparagus soup

Let's take a bit of a break from the complexities of Italian cooking and ice cream making, shall we?  And let's  explore one of those  "enjoy them now, because they won't be here forever," vegetables, the asparagus.
When Annalena was a wee child, she would not eat asparagus.  Perhaps, indeed probably, the reason was that asparagus in her home was by and large, the canned varieity.  Yes, that would sour most of us on them wouldn't it?  However, it is interesting that the three vegetables Annalena recoiled from, were asparagus, artichokes, and eggplant.  And Nana, in her wisdom, pointed at Annalena and said  ASPETTA  (wait).  "One day, these will be your favorite vegetables."  It is close to the truth. And in season, Annalena can never really get enough of the asparagus, or the eggplants.  Artichokes never really come "into season" in NYC, as the climate simply is not right.  One does what one can.  It is  high asparagus season now, and Annalena and the Guyman eat them twice, or even three times a week.
Usually, they are simply steamed, perhaps with a bit of butter on them, but usually just lemon juice.  We also have the wonderful asparagus salad that you will find on this blog, usually with a nut oil dressing and crushed hazelnuts atop it.  And here is one that you should have because, well, it is so easy, and it is so good.  It comes from the pen of Mark Bittman, and Annalena will tell you how she accesorized it, and leaves you to do so as well.  

This recipe makes tons of soup:  ten cups or so.  Cut it in half if you need or want less.  And when you go through it,  think about the calories - or the lack of them.  For those of you who are watching weight (and who amongst us is  not?), this is a wonderful little thing to have around.  And it is fast.  If you look up the nutrition values for asparagus, it is good for you too.

Ok, to make the ton of soup, you need 3 pounds of asparagus.  Usually, this is about three farmers market bunches, but if you have too many, is that really a problem?  Go through them, and if you have some with tough stems on the tail end (this will be the case with any which are more than about 1/3 of an inch in thickness),  peel them with a vegetable peeler, just to get the tough part off.  If you are quick with a peeler, 3 pounds will get done in less than ten minutes.   Break them into pieces (no need for surgical precision), and then peel about a half pound worth of potatoes, and cube those.  Put them in the pot as well, with a nice teaspoon of salt, and then ten cups of stock.  Annalena used 4 cups of chicken, and six cups of water.  Do not use beef:  it is too strong.  Use vegetable, or all water, if you are going vegan, or use all chicken.  Annalena did the dilution, because she wanted the asparagus flavor to come through.

Now, turn up the heat.  When the pot comes to the boil, lower it to a simmer, and let it go for fifteen minutes.  Now, turn off  the pot, get out your blender, and when the soup cools down, ladle it in and just puree.

And  you're done.  Maybe.  Annalena was serving this to her farmers market friends, and she had leftover roast chicken  (again, from the calorie standpoint, go and check the recipes for roasted chicken on this blog.  It won't kill you).    Shredded, this made a more than ample soup.

BUT.... there was also a package of bacon giving Annalena the stink eye.  She fried up a half pound, crumbled it, and the soup was no longer in the  low calorie department, but it was still good for you.  Leave it out, or leave out the chicken if you like.  Mr. Bittman suggests lemon  and olive oil for his garnish.  Have at it, or use dill, or use whatever you like with asparagus (remember those chopped nuts?  And Annalena is thinking a chopped golden beet or two...).

When you take this soup out of the blender, the potato gives it a texture which will make you think that this is cream based.  But of course, it is not. And Annalena suggests not adding any dairy, because it would dilute what is a delicate flavor to begin with.  But only you need to know that, when you serve it, cold or hot, to your loved ones. 

Try it.  Annalena believes you will be a convert.

We shall return to the intricacies of Italian cuisine next time around, as we make crostini neri, or fettunte nere, or crostini di fegato di pollo, or  chicken liver crostini.

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