Condimania: pickled cabbage

Ragazzi, Annalena loves her pickles.   The more sour, the better (which may explain her disposition somewhat).  And while, every now and then, Annalena does in fact make a batch of storage cucumber pickles, the facts of living in a New York apartment are such that storing pickles, is not really an option.  Of course, the fact that there is only the Guyman (who is NOT a picklepuss) and Annalena factors into this.  Either we make gifts of large batches of pickles, or we buy what is frequently, well, unsatisfactory.

Annalena's thoughts turned to pickles this week,  because she had picked up a lovely speciment of spitzkohl at her Farmer's Market.  Now, for those of you who are less than conversant with the German language, "spitzkohl" means, literally, pointed , or spiked, cabbage.  A link to a picture follows:

http://de.fotolia.com/id/9796084

Annalena is told that this type of cabbage was once predominant in southern Germany, but has essentially disappeared.  Pennsylvania Dutch (who are not Dutch), grow it in the United States, and it is perhaps not surprising that Annalena found it at a farm from Pennsylvania.  Our grower had tried it this year, for the first time.  And in one of those glorious conminglings that is only HERE, the farmer is from Syria, living in Pennsylvania Dutch country, selling vegetables in New York, to an italian american. 

Well, Annalena was intrigued.

OK, so the spitzkohl was sitting in the fridge, giving Annalena dirty looks in the way only German vegetables can  (don't ask).  Annalena's thinking was then, thus:  she loves Chinese pickled cabbage, and we were having Asian vegan dumplings for lunch (again, don't ask).  Why not turn the German vegetable into a Chinese pickle?

Mulitculturalism comes easily, if you don't try.  And Annalena has a wonderful easy recipe for you, adopted from the much overlooked "The Art of Simple Food" by the goddess, Alice Waters.

What is wonderful about this cookbook, is  that it assumes you are an adult, and that you can, and will modify the recipes.  As Annalena did here.  The book has a great recipe for what Annalena's fratellino, il gattopardo would call "refrigerator pickles" that can be adapted to any vegetable (it is, ahem "versatile").  And Annalena did so. 

As noted, this was done with a spitzkohl, but use whatever cabbage you have.  If you use red cabbage, however, Annalena suggests that you stick with the white vinegars, rather than doing a color combination.  She thinks the flavor would be too strong.

This is also ridiculously easy to make.  You should have a jar of some kind of these "sottoaceti" in your fridge, at all times. 

For the cabbage, slice your vegetable finely,  to get about 8-10 cups of raw veggies (relax.  it will shrink).  Put this aside while you prepare the pickle brine.

Simplicity itself.  1.5 cups of white vinegar (Annalena used apple cider.  Wine or champagne would be good too), mixed with an equal amount of water.  2.5 tablespoons of sugar (do not omit this).   That is what is required.  Now, for the spices.  You should play with what "sounds" or "feels" good to you; however, as 'pardo would say "without coriander seeds it ain't pickles."  So put half a teaspoon or so in the liquid for Pardo and Annalena.  For this recipe, she used a bay leaf, a few sprigs of thyme from the rooftop garden, and some "crown dill"  .  "Crown dill" is the yellow efflorescence of the dill plant.  It looks something like a green and yellow flower.  Among Swedes, this is THE herb to use.  If you do not have it, then use plain chopped dill.  Also a couple of cloves of garlic, peeled and sliced, and a pinch of salt, bordering on half a teaspoon. 

Ms. Waters recommends cloves and a hot pepper.  Annalena did not use these, but for cabbage would say yea to the pepper and nix to the cloves.  Caraway seeds, perhaps.

So you bring  this pot to a boil, and then you pour it over the vegetables.  Push them down to make sure they are covered, put a lid on the bowl, and go away.  Let it cool to room temperature. 

The day you make these, they will be good.  After you stuff them into a jar (they will fill a quart jar), cover them with the brine, and let them sit in the fridge  overnight, they are transformative, and you will wonder how you lived without them. 

No fat in this ragazzi. 

So please, do this for Annalena.  Other leafy or soft vegetables, thin ones like onion slices, cucumber slices, etc, can be done the same way.  If you want to know about thicker heavier ones  ASK HER.  It is not hard. 

And next time, continuing condimania, we are going to make ketchup .  Or catsup.  Aren't you thrilled?  Are you not on the edge of your seat? 

MUAh.