Saturday, August 25, 2012

It ain't the meat it's the ... marinade. Balsamic marinated steak

Now ragazzi, let us not try to be naive:  you all know the conclusion to the expression above:  It ain't the meat it's the .... MOTION.  And what a song it is that carries that title.  Annalena first heard it performed by the wonderful Maria Muldaur (whatever happened to her by the way?  Sybil probably knows and isn't telling), and of course, these days, it has become far less clever, as the contrary expression "SIZE MATTERS"  seems to dominate, rather than the much more clever one.  Indeed, Annalena's friend Steven, the world's most talented flower man (Annalena will NOT call him a florist),  has a wonderful parallel:  "it's not the pen but how you sign your name."  Indeed.  But as we go through life....


How DID she get on that tangent?  Oh, yes, it's because for years Annalena eschewed (that does NOT mean sneezed at.  Oh, well, yes, in a way it does), marinades, thinking them quite useless.  And indeed, in many applications, they still are.  How often have you prepared a marinade, left something in it for the allocated length of time,  prepared it, and then wondered "why did I go through that t rouble?"  Well, Annalena has some answers.  For marinades to be successful, they must be VERY STRONG.  Stronger than you think.   They MUST contain a very large proportion of an acid, they MUST contain a good quantity of a fat of some kind (and as marinades are generally liquid, this means oil, rather than butter), and they MUST contain some form of sweetening and salting agent.  All of these are necessary for the chemistry of what happens:  the acid breaks down the walls of whatever you are marinating, allowing flavoring to enter.  Else, it just stays on the surface.  The fat carries whatever flavoring is in the marinade to the interior of the product, especially if it is a protein.  The salt also acts to break down the walls of the meat or other item, and also removes water that would dilute it.  Finally, the sweetening agent allows you to carmelize your food when you cook it.  Ultimately, all browning of any kind in cooking (NOT elsewhere), is carmelization. So, if you thought that there was no sugar in meat, think again, ragazzi.

OK, chemistry lesson over, let's continue , but with one, final point.  Marinades take their time to work.  If you see a recipe that says "marinate for 20 minutes," count on failing.  If you see one that says "marinate for at least four, and as many as 24 hours," lean toward 24.  Try not to exceed a full day, because the breakdown that you want will continue, and after a certain point, you will be left with, for example, flabby meat or soggy vegetables, and so forth.

This one appealed to Annalena because the acid and sweet are in the same ingredient:  her beloved balsamic vinegar.  Also, this being high season for herbs, she could substitute the dried oregano in the original recipe, with fresh , grown on her own rooftop by the lovely and talented Neal.    So, here we go. 

Now, the recipe called for flank steak and an outdoor grill.  Ragazzi, let us be somewhat free spirits here:  if you have a steak that is chewy and from a tougher muscle (this excludes beef tenderloin and rib eye), use it.  Skirt steak, London broil, tri tip, even sirloin, will work here.    And use your ridged grill pan.  Annalena did, and it works just fine.

Ok, let us make our marinade.  Slice two large cloves of garlic, and mix them with a healthy tablespoon of rosemary needles, and one of oregano leaves ,both fresh.  Add two tablespoons of whole grain mustard to this, and half a cup of balsamic vinegar.  Do not break out the 100 dollar jar you got for Christmas for this, but use something better than the stuff on sale for 99 cents a  gallon bottle at the grocery store.  Add a cup of extra virgin olive oil too.  Again, don't use the stuff that was willed to you by your long lost aunt from Provence,  but also, don't use the stuff that has been sitting around since 1993, or the stuff that says "Product of......"  followed by a nation you have never heard of.

Mix this all up, and then taste it.  If you think it needs some salt, do add it.  The mustard has salt in it.  It is best done in a food processory, but you can whisk it all up in a big bowl, if you have a strong wrist.  Just make sure to add the oil last, and slowly. 

Annalena assures you:  this is VERY very tasty.  Now, take about half a cup of it away and stash it.  Because you are going to put the meat into this. Three pounds of it. Put everything in a glass baking dish, or a plastic bag, or a non -metal bowl, and cover it.  If you use the bag, put the bag in a receptacle, just in case it leaks.  Cover the meat with the marinade.  If that means turning it a few times, do so.  Put the package in the refrigerator, and as you are so moved,  turn the meat so that the coating is uniform and constant.   And leave it there overnight. 

When you are ready to cook, take out the steaks.  Don't be a lunatic about it, but take whatever is stuck on the meat off, simply by running your finger down each side of the steak.

Get your pan, or grill hot, and then, cook the steaks to the degree you like them.  When they're done - and this is important - let them rest for a good five minutes, maybe even ten.  You need to do this because you will not be serving this as a whole steak, even if you use individual portions. Rather, slice it.  And then, when you bring it to table, pour the reserved marinade over everything.  If you haven't drunk it on the sly already.

This is extremely good.  And if you look at things, it is easy.  The hardest thing to do here, is chopping the herbs.  You can handle that. 

And this one, Johnny D, is for you.  Baci.

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