Friday, December 6, 2013

Trying new things: chicken in a maple yogurt and orange marinade

A few weeks ago, ragazzi, Annalena read an article in the New Yorker (now, a lot of things have to fall into place for Annalena to read a whole article these days, but they did),  and it mentioned a service of which  Annalena was not aware:  Quinciple.  This is a service which is somewhat of a cross between a  CSA and a "personal shopper" for groceries.  Once a week, they will send you a box of what they consider "good stuff."  They make no assertion of it providing anything more than two meals, for two people.  So far, Annalena is enthralled with it, in part because their choice of ingredients is not normally what she would put in her grocery cart, and she is being introduced to new things,  and new sources.  Who knew, for example, that someone grew rice in Vermont?  Certainly not Annalena.

They also include convenient recipe cards, and that is what provoked this post.   Last week's box included chicken legs, a container of maple yogurt, and oranges  (it sort of sounds like "chopped" doesn't it?).  There was a recipe for the chicken legs, marinated in the yogurt and orange juice.  And know what?  It's good.  It really, really truly is.  There are some flaws with the recipe, which Annalena is going to do her best to see you through, but ultimately, you should make this recipe.

You start with two chicken legs, broken into the thigh and leg portions.  T his is not hard to do if you're not squeamish (if you are, buy them already disjointed).  To separate the thigh and drumstick, turn the leg over, so the skin is down, and probe,  with your finger, until you find what is clearly a round, joint.   If you put  a small, sharp knife there, they will separate easily.  Just cut through the skin, and you have your parts.  (You don't have to do this, by the way, but it is easier to manipulate the parts, than the whole leg).  Now, wash those chicken parts, and then put them in a bowl with a cup of the maple yogurt, and the juice and grated peel of one orange.  You should also add a healthy teaspoon of salt.   Cover everything with the mix, and put it in your fridge, for at least a few hours, preferably overnight.

As far as Annalena can tell, t his is how the recipe works: yogurt has a mild acid in it, which tenderizes the meat.  The maple syrup adds  a sugar element, which will lead to some lovely carmelization.  So will the orange juice, which will also add its flavor.  And a little grated orange peel goes a long way in flavoring things.

When you're ready to cook, get some fresh herbs.  The recipe called for oregano, which was also in the box, but Annalena was tempted to use thyme, or even rosemary.  The tarragon in her fridge will wait for something else.  Turn on your oven, to 375.  And, get a large skillet, and get it hot.  When it is in fact hot, add two tablespoons of olive oil.

Now, here's where you will need to be "careful," which is a bit of an overstatement.  Take the chicken parts out of the yogurt mix, and get as much of it off as possible.  The recipe stated that a little of it, on the chicken is ok.  Well, it really isn't, as Annalena will explain.  Put the chicken, skin side down in the hot pan, and sear for about five minutes.  At this point, you are supposed to be able to turn the chicken over.

Well.... maybe not.  See, yogurt, being a dairy product, is loaded with milk proteins.  When heated, they STICK and they STICK hard.   Anyone who has ever tried to clean up burned milk will verify Annalena's lament.  Now,  whoever is responsible for wine, needs to be thanked immeasurably for it, for many reasons, including this.  If you add some white wine to the pan (move your face away), it dissolves that stickiness, and you'll get your chicken up off the pan with no problem.    Trust Annalena here.  She never lies about wine.  Once you have it turned over, get the whole pan in the oven, for 20-25 minutes.  IF you happen to have an extra orange around, it is nice to cut it into quarters, or sixes, and put that in with the chicken.  You'll have some lovely carmelized oranges at the end.

VOILA.  Some rice (from Vermont), some local greens, and you have a pretty darn good dinner that you could serve to company.

So, ragazzi, this one probably falls right in between rich and healthy, so we have a good way to end the week.  That, and the fact that the spaetzle recipe has skyrocketed to Annalena's third most popular recipe.  Make some good food this weekend, carini.  Annalena may pop in, but the strega is tired.

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