Pasta veloute', the easy way: for Liz and Jeremy

When Annalena was giovane, that is, somewhere between being a child and adult, she spent some time as a "vegetarian who eats fish."  That is the term we had for it then, ragazzi.  So, too, was her ragazza Liz.  Now, however, as "we are grown, with debts and regrets " (no googling now:  where is that from?),  we have this term  "Pescatorian."  That is, someone who eats fish but not red meat.  Indeed, the range of terms for  different ways people eat has become downright staggering: sort of like the varieties of coffee drinks one can get at Starbucks.  These confuse Annalena to no end,  as she tries to order a simple skinny cappucino, and she contemplates her encroaching senility.

Well, this is a dish for Annalena's pescatorian friends, most notably Liz and Jeremy.  We start with a veloute', one of the most useful things you will ever know how to make.

What, precisely, is a veloute'?  Well, ragazzi, if you can make a bechamel, you can make a veloute', because you are making a single substitution.  In a veloute', one uses flour, butter, and milk to make a thick white sauce.  Or a thin one, depending on proportions.  In a veloute', one replaces the milk with stock, except the stock must be one where no roasted materials have been used.

Generally, one finds veloutes of chicken, and fish.  However, if you think Annalena is going to make her own fish stock, you are even crazier than she is.  So, cheat the way Annalena does, and use clam juice.  She bets you will not notice the difference, and you will not be saying  "this could have been SO much better if I had used homemade fish stock.  See, in addition to being "grown, with debts and regrets," we are all too busy.  If there is a good way to save some time and make something tasty, Annalena is all for it.   So, let's away, and use the veloute'  (it rhymes with many things, doesn't it?).

We start with half a stick of unsalted butter.  If you remember your proportions, this is 1/4 cup of butter.  You will want the same quantity of flour.  Put these in a heavy pot, over low heat, and when the butter begins to melt, start whisking.  This is very little material, ragazzi, so you will have to be patient, as it is harder to work with LESS material in a sauce, than with more.  Of course, you COULD save this for a time when you are making it for a crowd, but why cheat yourself?

When the butter has melted, and the flour is incorporated therin, start adding clam juice and continue to whisk.  Start with a cup.  Watch how it thickens almost immediately.  Take a look at it:  at this point, some have compared the stuff to glue.  With good reason.  Add another half a cup.  You will begin to loosen the stuff.  If you feel it is still too thick, now add half a cup of warm water.  Stir it all together, and you have the basis for your sauce.   Taste it.  Too bland?  Add salt.  But wait until now, ragazzi, beause with clam juice, one does not know .


This is going to provide you with enough veloute' for a pasta sauce for three to four people. And let's away to that sauce.  Here's how Annalena did it.  She took two carrots, peeled them, and cut them into small chunks.  These went into the veloute', together with a half cup of peas she had frozen over the summer, and a small quantity of diced celery.  Finalmente, a pound of scallops. If they are large, half or quarter them.  Annalena was using bay scallops, so there was no need.    If you have done this right after you made the veloute', there is no need for further cooking, as the residual heat of the cooling sauce will cook your vegetables.  If not, put this on very low heat, as you prepare your pasta.

There is much seafood and veggies in this sauce, ragazzi, so keep that in mind. Generally, 3-4 ounces of dried pasta per person is considered a correct serving, and Annalena suggests you cut the amount back.  Use a stubby pasta, because the scallops are stubby.  (Both of her pescatorians know what they are doing in the kitchen, and are seeing the ability to substitute veggies and fish types, are you not?  )

When the pasta is just a bit too al dente for you, drain it.  Look at your sauce just before you do.  Has it thickened too much?  If so, then save some of the pasta water.  Toss the pasta and the sauce together, and if it seems too tight or too thick, add as much of the pasta water as you think is needed, BUT NOT MORE THAN 1/3 OF A CUP.  Taste again, check for seasoning.

AND IF YOU LEARNED NOTHING FROM ANNALENA YOU KNOW THAT AT THIS POINT YOU DO NOT ADD CHEESE.  You may want to add some baby greens, or some micro greens, or something like that, but you are finished.  You have an easy, tasty pasta that you can be proud of. It is substantial, and... you just learned how to make 1 (and perhaps 2), of the five mother sauces of French cooking.  These are the easy ones, ragazzi.  The other three will break your heart.  Like so many things.   So console yourself with pasta