Saturday, March 29, 2014

"Composition as explanation" or "an explanation of composition" OR a composed dish of salad, potatoes, and fish

A very astute food observer wrote, very recently, that the way you can tell food is homemade, or made in a restaurant, is how it is presented on the plate.   Annalena smiled when she saw that, because in many ways, and for most restaurants, it is true.

Think of how  you grew up, with your mom, or dad, or aunt, or whomever cooking , and how you cook now.  When the p late comes to the table:  protein at one point. Starch next to it. Green vegetable, completing the plate.

You're smiling in recognition, aren't you?  Indeed, we have plastic partition trays, it is how tv dinners are presented, how kids get their cafeteria trays, and so on and so forth.

Now, eat the same meal you cooked at home.... and you get vertical plating.    More smiles, yes?  Veggies underneath, starch on top of that , and protein atop it all, with some kind of garnish.

You know whereof  Annalena speaks.  Well, normally Annalena does not cook restaurant style.  She plates the way her Nana taught her, and that's standard "triangular" form; however, lately, she has been trying a new company, which provides all the ingredients for meals, but you have to cook them.  They measure, provide a recipe, and away you go.

So far, Annalena is intrigued, and somewhat interested. She has liked things,  but has pretty much used this source to help her get more inspiration.  This is the tale of her first dish with them, and she thinks you should make this.   It is a dinner that comes in at less than 600 calories a portion, so you can do something like eat a green vegetable with it, which it very much needs (Annalena made asparagus).  But let's make the  dish .

You are going to need a handful of chard.  Chop it into small pieces and put it aside.  This is your garnish.    For your other ingredients, let's take 12 ounces of small potatoes (fingerlings), and put them in salted, cold water.  Make sure thre's LOTS of water.  Bring the pot to a boil, lower it to a medium simmer, and cook for about 12 minutes, while you do some other stuff.

The other stuff is zesting a lemon, and cutting it into quarters, as well as making a salad dressing.  We mak the dressing by taking a bowl, and adding two tablespoons of red wine vinegar and the same quantity of olive oil.  Whisk them together. Add salt to taste, and then add about four cups of arugula to the mix.  (this is about a quarter to a third of a pound.  Toss it all together.  You have enough dressing (as Annalena learned).


By now, your potatoes are done.  Do drain them,  and put them aside for about ten minutes to cool a bit.  When they're cool enough to handle, cut them into coins, and dress thes, with that lemon zest, a healthy teaspoon of salt,  the chives you cut before, and a tablespoon of olive oil.  Toss everything together, taste a piece of potato, and adjust as you need.

NOW, we get to our fish.  Annalena made pollack, but you can use any white, firm fish.  6 ounces to a person.  And it couldn't be easier.  Get a non stick pan, put a couple of tablespoons of olive oil in it, and heat to a shimmer.  This takes five minutes or so.  While the oil is heating, pat your fish dry, salt and pepper it, and then get it into the pan.  Four minutes to a side or so is fine.

And now, we plate.  First, put that arugula salad on your dinner plate, and now, strew the potatoes over it.  Finally, put the fish right on top of that.  Take that lemon you started with, cut it into wedges, and adorn the side of the plate with it.


All done.  You'll be out of the kitchen in 30 minutes with a truly excellent, "composed" meal.  Gertrude Stein (who wrote "Composition as Explanation,") would be pleased

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