Thursday, June 5, 2014

Spanning the globe, and staying at home: two vegetable recipes: asparagus and parmesan, and nettle patties

Ciao a tutti.  Annalena hopes that you all enjoyed the excursion into chicken land.   That second recipe was nearly free of digression, wasn't it?  Well, we will not be so fortunate today, as we look at the construction of a recipe, using other recipes.  And this is one where you will learn where rules can be "broken" or at least modified.

Where shall we start?  We assume that at this point of the year, you're using your spring  veggies:  eat your asparagus now.  They won't be around forever.  But moreso, eat your nettles.  (Annalena  wishes we used the Italian name:  ortica.  She likes the sound better).  These will be here for less time and, unlike asparagus, these cannot be farmed.  They are being foraged wild.  They are worth the work, as we will see.

So let's turn to those asparagus and engage in a digression.  While in San Francisco, Annalena and the Guyman were meandering through a bookstore, and she saw that the American Academy in Rome had published two new books, on pasta and on vegetables.  Now, why is this significant?  Well, Annalena explains.

The American Academy in Rome is storied:  you attend, by invitation only.  It is supposed to be one of the most powerful groups of scholars in the world, studying all kinds of things.  And everyone raves of their stay.  For years, however, there was one issue:  food.  Apparently, the cafeteria was dreadful.  Now, Annalena questions why, in Rome, an institution like this needs a cafeteria, but  this is out of her control.  In any event, some time ago the Academy hired Alice Waters and Chez Panisse as consultants.  The food has been revamped, totally, and the books are coming out.  Annalena has the first one on soup, which she felt was "meh."  She also has the pasta one, which she hasn't looked at.  But the "verdure" book? Oh, what ideas!  And a recipe for her favorite vignarola. She is, in green heaven.

So there's the backstory.  One of the recipes involved roasted asparagus with basil oil.  It explains that, in Italy, basil does come in at about the same time as asparagus, so seasonality is there.

Lucky Italians.  BUT.... we adapt.   The idea of roasting asparagus is a really good one, especially if you really like asparagus (If you don't, oh well).  But without basil oil, Annalena was thinking, thinking... and here's how her thoughts went.

Asparagus with cheese is an unsung natural combination.  If you have not  had asparagus with a blanket of melted fontina, get to it.  NOW.    And then, make this. See, Annalena was thinking that a sharp cheese would go well with the asparagus, and she was right.

This one is as easy as it gets kids, so let's go.  Get one or two bunches of asparagus.  Try to get the thicker ones, but if you don't, don't worry.  We can adapt.  Cut off the tough ends.  Here's how you do it.  Bend one. See where it breaks.  The broken part is too tough to eat.  Or just get lazy and cut about an inch off the bottom.  Toss the jersey grass onto a baking sheet, with two or three tablespoons of olive oil, and toss them to coat.  Some pepper is nice, and the smallest amount of salt.  Not too much salt, because of what's to happen.

Get these guys into the oven, at 400 degrees and roast them for 30 minutes.  At fifteen minutes, move them around.  They are going to shrink and frankly, look quite horrible.  They will taste great.

You can stop here, but why not ask for more, as the Leonard Cohen song goes?  So, while they are roasting, grate anywhere from half a cup, to a full cup of good quality parmesan.  And when the tray of asparagus comes out of the oven,  (with your hands protected),  sprinkle the cheese over everything , and toss.  DO THIS WHILE THE VEGGIES ARE HOT.  The result is a mix of melted cheese, crispy cheese, and just grated cheese, all over the vegetables.  It is like a combination of frico (those wonderful cheese crisps), and concentrated asparagus flavor.  Nearly a meal in themselves, but if not, one of those treat yourself side dishes.

One word to the wise, ragazzi. Some of you are what we call, in sciences  "positive smellers."  If you are, you know what Annalena means.  And the concentration of the asparagus in the roasting removes the water and leaves other things behind.  Hence, an hour or so after, well...

Annalena thought she was going to include her recipe for nettle patties here, but she has gone on for a while.  That will follow separately.  She knows about attention spans.  So, ragazzi, go for this, and in preparation for the nettles, get yourself some thin gloves.  You will want them.

No comments: