Moving from sweet to savory: tomato tart tatin

Ah, ragazzi,  Annalena has much to say about her recent trip to France, and she feels much of it does not belong in her blog.  But if you wish to know, ask her.  She will always tell you.

One of the best meals Annalena and the Guyman had in France began with tomato tart tatin.  Now, many of you will know "tart tatin" as a sweet dessert, usually made with apples.  And indeed, this creation,  devised by the Tatin sisters in the restaurant in the Loire Valley region of  France (where Annalena was as well), is famous.  One could say it is canonical.  And as with all things canonical, there is a literature around it, a list of "dos" and "don't"  and many other things, including the development of special pans for making them (Annalena has one).  And there are many "special" pans.  During her visit to France, for example, Annalena saw one which had slots for the apples.  THAT was new to her.

Essentially, in a tart tatin,  you cook raw fruit, in butter and sugar, over an open flame, until it carmelizes.  This can take a while.  When it happens, the fruit shrinks, the juices join the butter and sugar to make the caramel, and then you put a layer of dough on top.   There is much debate on the dough, and Annalena has seen baking powder doughs (like biscuit), pie crust, puff pastry (probably most common), and bread dough.  You then move the beast into an oven, and bake until the dough is brown and crispy.  You then put a plate over the whole creation, say a prayer, and invert it.  You use a plate at least as big as the pan, so as to catch the juices, and to prevent injury from hot caramel.  Many of the special pans do have special handles for this.

The first restaurant Annalena and the Guyman ate at in  Paris served us tomato tart tatin.  It was delicious, and Annalena tried to replicate it, using recipes she found on line.  Her first attempt was ok, but needed work.  She likes this one.  And it's easy to make.  So, let's make it.


Now, for those of you who are phobic about bread dough, Annalena will give you permission to buy premade dough, or even to cadge some pizza dough from  your local pizzeria. For those of you who want to make your own, Annalena's second writing on this block, so many years ago, is how to make bread.  To repeat a quick summary:  you need 2.25 cups of water, a tablespoon of yeast, 2 teaspoons of salt, and six cups of unbleached white flour.  Mix this all up.  It will take a few minutes, and if it's a dry day, or your dough is not supple, add more water.  You want it to be stretchy.  Then put it aside to rise for about an hour to 2 hours.  This is going to give you enough to make two of these.

Now, let's approach the tart itself.  For the tomatoes:  it is best to work with plum tomatoes, because they are meatier, and do not produce as much liquid.  You will need about 3 pounds of them.  The first thing you do, is cut a small "x" at the bottom of each, and then drop them into a pot of plain old boiling water, for ten seconds.  Have a bowl of ice water ready, and immerse them.  The skins will peel off miraculously, and if they don't, well, use a small knife, or say the hell with it.  You can see Annalen's skinned tomatoes below.  You can see the x's, can't you?

After you have done this, cut the tomatoes in half, and yank out the seeds. Also, cut away that little green blossom end.   Annalena treats the seeds and juice as her treat.  It's very good for you.  If you happen to have a pot of soup going, put them in that.   Here are Annalena's in process:

She hadn't finished cleaning them, but you will see some of them sort of disembowled.  

We now start with the really fun part.  Melt about 3 tablespoons of butter in a non-stick pan (ignore recipes that say you can't use them:  you can.  Just be sure your pan is oven safe).  Then, position the tomatoes, cut side up, in the pan.  Shove them in and crowd them.  It's ok. 

Note that WE DO NOT USE SUGAR.  Tomatoes have a very high sugar content, and you WILL get an inherently sweet pie. 

Salt this very generously.  You will also see that Annalena did not clean her tomatoes very thoroughly.  That was bad of her.  Do so until you get the hang of this.  

Put the heat to medium, and let this cook away for twenty minutes, while you let your oven heat to 400.  Your tomatoes will cook down, darken, and liquid will go off.  You may even smell a sort of "vegetal caramel" as this happens.  Here's what Annalena's looked like, at ten minutes:

It's hard to see any difference, but it is there.  Ten minutes into the cooking, roll out your dough.  Use a floured surface, and do not worry about surgical precision.  All you are going to do is drop it onto the tomatoes and then, with the flame off, adjust as need be, so that the dough is covering the fruit (tomato is a fruit, gang) completely:

This will remind some old school cooks of some old style American desserts.  Annalena salutes you for remembering that.  Move this into the oven,  and let it bake for 30-45 minutes, until  your dough is nice and brown. 

Remember to have chosen a pan not bigger than your biggest plate.  When you COVER YOUR HANDS and take the pan out of the oven, drop the plate directly over the tart.  Wait a few minutes, say an "Ave Maria, and...  FLIP IT.

As with upside down cakes, if some of the tomatoes stick to the pan, just spoon them out and cover the spots on the tart.  Add a few basil leaves if you like, grated cheese if you must.  Serve it forth.  It's best warm, but you can refrigerate the left overs and eat them for breakfast or a snack.  Annalena is not going to mind.

One of her buds referred to this as 'French pizza."  Well, maybe.  But maybe not.  ENJOY RAGAZZI.  Everyone have a wonderful week.  Annalena will see you again soon.