La Cuisine de Bonne Femme: vichissoyse

There are probably about six misspellings in that title. French is not one of my languages, and I apologize for that. You would think that, for someone who cooks as much as I do, I would know kitchen French at the least, but I don't. Does that mean I can't cook the food? I guess you'd have to ask some French people.

In coming into English from any language, there is a loss. I interpret "Bonne Femme" as the lady who personifies the stereotypical "feminine" values. Almost like the Hearth goddess in mythology (Hestia? Vesta? She has different names). I think of her as the woman who is confronted with having to feed a lot of people, with limited means. Sort of like my Nana, only in France. I think they may also be called "grande mamman." They are a disappearing breed, and that's a shame. Maybe gay men will be the next wave of these wonderful ladies, who specialize in dealing with the world's ills by feeding people something good to eat, regardless of what is available to them.

Potato leek soup (so I don't murder the French language any more than I already have), is an integral part of that cuisine. Leeks, and potatoes , are just about always available. They take a second place when the harvest is full and bountiful, but now that we're in winter, they can star. Who does not like potatoes? And this soup is very much like a big hug (I want to say "French kiss, but. Well, you know).

This soup can be served hot, or cold. My friend Steve loves it cold. I always have it hot, even in summer. It can be pureed to the point of velvet smoothness. Or left chunky, or in the middle, which is where I do it. And it's quick. Remember, those lovely French ladies had other things to do besides cook. And so do you. So having containers of this wonderful soup around is a really really good thing.

What you need is a large bunch of leeks. Say, five or six of them (or, two small bunches). Take a look at them. Make a judgement call. Cut away the part that looks too tough. It is. You can save it for soup stock, but let's be honest: are you going to make soup stock? I didn't think so. Trash them. Now, cut the cleaned leeks vertically, and take a look. Spread out the leaves. Are they dirty? You'll be able to tell right away. If they are, wash them. If they aren't, don't. Then chop them fine. You want at least two cups of finely chopped, white and light green leeks.

Now, to the potatoes. I use three pounds. And I use yukon golds. You can use another potato, but stay away from the ones that have blue or red flesh here. Those are wonderful potatoes, but this soup is pale. Peel them, and then chop them into small chunks. Three pounds of them.

You will also need half a stick of butter, unsalted, or if you are or are cooking for vegetarians, 2 ounces of olive oil, i.e, a quarter of a cup. Heat your fat in a big soup pot, and add the leeks, followed by a big heaping teaspoon of salt. Sautee them, until you hear a change in the sound, i.e, from a vigorous sizzle, to a slow, deep one. Don't let them brown.

When you're there, toss in the potatoes, and stir. Make sure you coat everything with fat. Then add WATER. Not stock, not wine, WATER. I've tried. Water works the best. You'll need about six cups if you want a fairly thin soup, or as little as four, if you want your soup to be the thickness of loose mashed potatoes. Cover the pot, lower the heat, and let them cook for thirty minutes. Check the potatoes. Are they nice and soft? If they are, you're done. If not, let them cook a little longer. It shouldn't take more than 45 minutes. Check the seasoning, and add more salt if you like. Some people add milk at this point, but I don't.

Look at the soup. Do you like the texture? If you do, leave it alone. If you want something really smooth, wait until it cools, and put it through the food mill (Remember all those things they say about potatoes getting gummy in the blender or food processor? They're right). But if you want it somewhere in between , get out that old fashioned potato masher, and get to work. Just about five minutes is what I need.

I made this tonight, and I got about 2.5 quarts of soup. Plenty to share. What to eat with it? A VERY good question. All those potatoes suggest not having any further starch, so dark bread, or pizza, doesn't sound good.

AH. Remember the duck breast recipe I gave you? Well, we had duck last night. There's some left over. Remember when I suggested using leftover duck for a salad? Well.... (I guess I DO like leftovers). "Bottom line" is, put out something with protein and greens and you've got a really fine meal. Drink white, or drink red. Both will go with this. Or, if you feel perfectly smug about what you've done (and you should. You made something really good), have a second bowl. With a second glass of wine. Then have a baked apple for dessert.

I didn't think I was going to enjoy this blog, but yes, I do. I like this one a lot. And I'm going to send it to two of the young ones, Peter and Keith, both of whom have gotten interested in cooking. Yes, I think it will suit my bright eyed little brothers very well