"Quacking" in the New Year

So we get to 2008. We have finished our annual New Year's Day party, which, by any standard, I would say was a success. It always amazes me, and also thrills me, when I put food out on the table, buffet style, and it disappears. Every year I think a new record is set, and the same is true this year. After cooking for three days, Guy and I had sandwiches for dinner. In the past, it's been pizza or Chinese takeout. This year, our friend Dan brought us a container of minestrone and tortellini, knowing that this kind of thing happens. Honestly, the sandwiches were just easier. Deep breaths now. Because now I have to deal with what is in the market, most of which will not be local, and have to deal with the most difficult months for me to cook in: December through April. And I'm spoiled. I can get vegetables. I think of people now, and before, who couldn't. Is it no wonder that canned and frozen vegetables became so popular.

But I digress. Moreso than usual. The topic for today is duck.

People do not cook duck at home. I think I understand why. They have the correct image of the bird as being very fatty, very bony, and not at all practical if you're cooking for more than two people.

Well, duck is fatty. But only parts of it are bony. And while a WHOLE duck is impractical for more than two people, the solution there is to cook parts of the duck. I will come to cooking duck legs in a future post, but as the year begins, and we're all looking for easy, let's start with duck breast.

A few other things. People believe that duck is expensive. Compared to chicken, it is. But that's an incorrect comparison, in my view. Duck has to be considered red meat. You must compare duck breast prices to the price of a good , tender steak. Because that is what it is closest to, in terms of quality of eating, how to prepare it, and so forth.

You can buy half breasts of duck almost everywhere. There are different breeds, and you should try things like Pekin or maillard or muscovy (if you can find it), to find what you like. Half of a duck breast is a rather large portion for one person, but most people can dispatch it without much difficulty. When we eat it, we are usually eating other things, to cut the richness of the duck (Yes, duck is VERY fatty), and we share one half breast between us. It is really up to you. I would suggest cooking two half breasts at the same time, and if there is any left, using the meat in a salad later in the week.

When you get the duck breasts out of their packages, you will notice right away how fatty and firm they are. Most of that fat is going to cook off, if you do it correctly. This is how. First, make a cross pattern of cuts, with a very sharp knife, down to the very red meat, without cutting into the meat. Then, salt and pepper the duck breasts.

Now, put them fat side down into a COLD pan that is big enough to hold both of them. No oil, no water, (although some writers say to start with water, I do not agree), and turn the heat to low. Within a minute or so, you'll see the breasts begin to release the fat. And continue to release it. And continue to release it. This is something that amazes me every time I cook duck breasts. I almost have a running debate with myself as to how much fat it's going to render. I think the most has been one whole cup for two half breasts.

Anyway, keep the slow cooking going for about 7 minutes. How long is exactly right? If you really want to know, what you should do is drain off the fat at two minute intervals, and when you see almost nothing coming off, you're done. Then, turn the halves over and cook, fat side UP, for about two minutes, no more. You'll see a wonderful dark color on the skin, and the kitchen will smell, well, gamy. That's duck for you.

Now is the time to "glaze" the duck. With what? Well, I'm partial to lavender honey, but you can use any glazing sauce you want. Cranberry sauce is not a bad thing. Neither is current jelly. Or apricot jam. Brush it on and watch it melt into the skin. Then leave the critters alone for five minutes, to rest.

You can serve the whole half breast to your guest or guests, but come on! You're serving a treat, and you haven't spent a lot of time here, so do it right. Cut the breast halves into thin slices on a sharp diagonal (you keep the crispy bits at the end for yourself). The easiest way to do this is to hold the breast half with a set of tongues, or with your hands (and if you use your hands, you get to lick the delicious glaze off at the end). Then fan the slices out on your plate with whatever else you're serving. A nice simple boiled green vegetable and a baked or boiled potato makes one helluva nice, weekday meal. And you can do this. Yes, you really can. You can be in and out of the kitchen in less than half an hour with a truly luxurious supper.

You DID promise to be good to yourself and to your loved ones in 2008, didn't you? Hmmmm?


Now, while I said duck breast is quick ( which it is), duck legs ain't. Like I said, I'll come back to this. Do keep in mind that the legs are the part of the duck that are working, all the time (unlike farmed chickens, even farmed ducks swim, and those legs are muscular). As a rule , lots of muscle means a braise, and a braise means long and slow. And that can be good. Like other things that are long and slow and good, but that's something else you promised yourself this year, isn't it? You know what I mean, the occasional bubble bath (yeah, right).