Tuesday, August 12, 2008

True blue

"True blue" is one of those expressions that, if you dissect it, doesn't really make much sense. We speak of a "true blue" friend, and the "true" part makes sense, but where does the "blue" come from? Yours truly doesn't know, and can understand why a non-native speaker may be confused by this, and other color idioms. Remember that when we're sad we're "feeling blue." So is a "true blue" friend someone who is truly sad all the time? And of course, dirty jokes are "blue." So is a "true blue" friend someone with a foul mouth? (that would be me.).

It's confusing, but one thing I know: I hope my friends consider me "true blue," whatever the true meaning of the phrase is. To me, such a friend is someone who's there, period, who doesn't really get too upset when you treat him badly, responds to what you need when you need it, and is "there" for you.

Don't make me get started on "green with envy."

Anyway, "true blue" is a good description for this entry, which is about blueberries. Indeed, they are a true blue friend to a cook. I actually know one person who does not like blueberries, but ONLY one. I know more people who don't like potatoes than who don't like blueberries. And in the kitchen, these guys are really the stalwarts of the berry family. They're sturdier than the other ones, they stay fresher longer, they're way more versatile (which does NOT mean they are bottoms by the way): you can use them in savory dishes as well as sweet ones, you can eat them raw, or cooked, and you can use them in just about anything you make. Remember how a handful of blueberries in your morning cereal made you smile when you were a kid? Remember the disgusting cereal that had freeze dried blueberries in it, that sort of looked like purple rabbit pellets? The only thing that was good about it was that the berries colored the milk bluish purple, and you could gross out your parents by doing what kids do with funny food.

So, ok, how do I use blueberries? Well, as with all berries, I can think of few better ways to eat them than raw, and right out of the hand. But you can do that. You don't need to read Annalena in order to know these are good (In fact, does anyone really NEED to read Annalena? Why ARE you reading this anyway, instead of eating blueberries).

Recently, I read a short piece on apricots that talked about how to really appreciate the flavor of apricots you need to cook them. Having just put away a dozen small apricots, raw, Annalena dissents. Cooked apricots are wonderful, but they are just as good raw; however, I will posit that to truly appreciate the flavor of blueberries, you DO have to cook them.

I am not going to go into the details of blueberry pie here (unless someone asks me to, then I'll write it up), but a much easier way to enjoy blueberries cooked. I don't want to call this a "coulis," because it's not strained, and I don't want to call it a sauce, because it's not really. So let me just call them "cooked blueberries."

This may be the easiest recipe in the whole blog. Take a pint of blueberries, and put them into a sauce pan, with about a quarter cup of water. Put a cover on the pot, and cook them, over low heat for about 7 minutes. You'll see some, but not all of the blueberries begin to break up, and a thick, dark sauce start to form. The sauce is thick because blueberries are loaded with pectin, the very stuff that helps jam and jelly to set up very firm. This is also why they're recommended to people who are, shall we say "a bit bunched up," if you know what I mean. When this breaking up has gone on for a few minutes, stir the berries. Some more of them will break up, but others will stay firm. Now, add about 3/4 cup of sugar to the cooked berries and stir it up. I find that when you add the sugar, late in the cooking process, the fruit takes on a sheen that is not there when you do it early. Maybe it's my imagination, but there it is.

And know what? You are DONE. Let this cool down, and it will continue to thicken. You can refrigerate it, of course, and it will thicken some more, but when you want to use it, I would say that you should let it come to room temperature.

What do you use it on? Well, if you have a bowl of vanilla ice cream, or a lemon flavored one, including wonderful lemon verbena ice cream, put some over that. Or a piece of pound cake. Or, dip some biscotti into it, especially if they are lemon flavored. Should you be moved to make a pie, and want to combine things, you can stir this into a peach or nectarine filling. In fact, you can also pour it over sliced peaches or sliced nectarines for a really nice treat.

The flavor components that everyone speaks of combining best with blueberries, are lemon and vanilla. If you really like those flavors, add a bit of lemon peel, grated fine, or a half teaspoon of vanilla to your cooked blueberries. But try the stuff plain, first. I think you might find it just terrific that way, as you experience a deep, resonant flavor that our "true blue" berry friends provide to us.

No comments: