Good to the bone: crispy whole fish

This is one that's gonna turn a lot of people off right away. First, we lose the people who don't cook fish, period, because (i) it smells up the house (ii) it's too hard or (iii) don't like fish. Well, if you don't cook fish because of (iii), Annalena can't help you. If you don't cook it because of (i), start buying your fish somewhere else. If you don't cook it because of (ii), that's why Annalena is here.

Fish is not hard to cook. It's not. It's easier to cook than most things. Look through this blog. You will find a host of fish recipes that are so easy to cook you will not believe it. Even if you only learn one (and if it's only one), learn the fish in papillote. You can make it a million different ways, and you will wonder "why did I think fish was hard to cook?" And if you learn a second one, learn this one.

There's an old proverb that is along the lines of "the meat at the bone is alway sweeter." Those of you with perverse minds may play with that as you like. I am not sure if the meat on the bone of any protein is better tasting, but I will say that there is something rather satisfying, almost primitive, about cooking and eating anything on the bone. Granted, with fish, you don't get the fun of sucking out the marrow (something my friend Vince and I do with relish, after too much wine), but nonetheless....

And fish on the bone is cheaper. Today when I was buying fish from Wade (aka as Poseidon), and Jan, the black sea bass was 19.00 a pound fileted, and 7.50 a pound, whole. No question, there is more waste when you use a whole fish, but think about it for a minute: do you think Annalena would be making it if she lost 2/3 of what she bought? Get real, ragazzi.

This is just one way to cook it. I can give you more. I supply this one because, added to the satisfaction of cooking on the bone, there's frying, which, let's face it, is everone's favorite way to cook things. Admit it. Once you do, we can move on.

But first.... fried fish is so easy, and so simple, that you will probably want something to go with it. So i will give you a recipe for a fool proof green sauce. First, you need a quarter cup of capers in salt. If you must, use the capers in brine, but look for the salted ones. They keep in your cupboard forever.

If you have the salted ones, soak them in water for fifteen minutes. Change the water every five minutes. If you use the brined ones, just drain the liquid. After the last soak, and draining, chop the capers roughly.

Also get about a cup of mixed, soft green herbs. What do I mean by soft? when you see fresh hers, look at the stems. Basil, lemon verbena, dill, cilantro, parsley, are all soft herbs. Rosemary and sage are not. Stay away from sage, which is too strong. After you've collected your herbs, chop them fine, stems and all. Please try to get a mixture. It will reward you.

Now, combine the juice of half a lemon and the juice of half a lime in a large bowl. Then add the herbs and the capers and whisk them together. Add some salt and now, whisking all the while, add about twice as much olive oil as you have citrus juice. Taste and add salt?

Not so hard, huh? Well, now onto the fish.

The hardest thing about cooking the fish is getting a pan big enough, and putting enough oil in it. Vegetable oil, please , to a depth of about 1/3 of an inch. Measure. Don't eyeball. To this day, Annalena gets it wrong.

A pan that is about 12 inches across is big enough to cook two sea bass of about a pound or so. If you're making more than that, turn the oven to 350, and put the fish on a paper lined baking sheet as you fry. You can reuse the oil for more fish, but alas, after this, the oil is depleted. It's not good for anything else.

Even in a big pan, you'll have to cut off the tails. That's ok, there's nothing really edible there (my Japanese friends will disagree. Oh well). Heat the oil until it "ripples" if you can tell what rippling is. If you can't, put a wooden spoon, handle side down, into the oil. When small bubbles form around it, fast and angry, the oil is ready.

GENTLY put the fish, which you have washed and dried with paper towel, into the oil. Set a timer, and cook it for 8 minutes. After 8 minutes, protect your hand and hold the handle of the pan, as you slip a paddle (like a pancake flipper) under each fish, and flip it.

You , like Annalena, will probably break up the fish. Don't worry. We're looking for tasty, not pretty here. Cook the other side for about six minutes.

While the second side is cooking, get some more paper towels ready, and when the fish is done, let it drain on the towels. Plate the fish, and pour that lovely herb sauce over it.

Annalena can explain to you how to eat fish on the bone, but do yourself a favor and google images and you will see, but ONLY if you want to. There is nothing wrong with digging in, pulling away pieces and essentially, making a pig of yourself. You will pick up bones, and it's ok, in fact it is mandatory, to crunch them, suck them, and just enjoy the fish.

Next week, Annalena will teach you how to steam whole fish. If you thought frying was easy...

And she'll introduce you to Carl , also known as Poseidon, and Norma, the other fish regents.