Ribbons of squash: copying from cooks

It's the time of the season when the various summer squashes show up. I've written about them, a few times, most memorably (to me), in the first one on squash, back in '07, about my Matthew. You ought to go and take a look at that one.
The interesting thing to me, in terms of comparing different "cycles," is how we, as people change our lives, but the seasons are essentially invariant. Matthew is off in LA now, becoming a star. (And I always think of the section in Don Quixote when Sancho Panza goes off and becomes king of his own Island. Matthew/Sancho, off to become Queen of L.A.? I think it's happening). We all changed in 3.5 years, but the vegetables still come in at the same time, every year. So, Matthew, when you come back - and you ARE coming back, this is for you.
When we eat a dish in a restaurant, there's always a sense of amazement, an "oooh" and an "aaah." Well, know what? You can make just about all of those dishes. And, frequently, they will not only taste as good as the restaurant, they will taste BETTER. Sometimes, as in the case of this one, you need a special piece of equipment, but the equipment is not expensive (I saw this on line at amazon for 20 bucks this morning), and it's something you can use, over and over again.
At our favorite Barbuto, they frequently serve a plate of very VERY thinly sliced summer squash, with pignoli nuts and basil. This is the eptiome of the philosophy there: you see three ingredients (plus the olive oil and salt and pepper). If your squash are fresh and delicious, and you're careful, you can make this in ten minutes. Let's

The benriner is a sort of "mandonline light." You use it to slice very thinly. Look it up,you'll see what it looks like. It's easy to use, but it's sharp, so for heaven's sake, be careful! It comes with a guard, and use it until you become fluent with it, unless you want to wind up in an emergency room with a sexy doctor who is ignoring you, trying to sew part of your thumb back on (that's for another Matt, not L.A. Matt, but pocket gay Matt. :). ) You need a 1/4 cup of pignoli nuts, about a pound of squash, something like patty pan (get small ones: 3-4 to a pound), and a big handful of fresh basil.

First, slice the squash on the benriner. Slow and easy. It will take you all of ten minutes, which is twice the time it's going to take to cook the dish. It will look like you have tons. Volume wise, you do, but remember (lots of people don't): if you start with a pound of squash, the most you can have at the end, is a pound of squash. Put that aside, and put a few tablespoons of olive oil in a big wide pan. Add the pine nuts, before you start heating. You do this to keep the little guys from burning. As the oil heats up, you will hear a sizzle, and you'll see the nuts begin to color. Stir them, to keep the color even. After no more than two minutes, remove them with a slotted spoon, to a little bowl.

Now, take your squash and add it to the hot oil. Add a big pinch of salt, and half of the basil leaves. Let it sit and cook for, oh, 3 minutes, and then stir it. Now add the pine nuts. Cook it for about two minutes more. Off the heat, add the last half of the basil leaves, roughly torn.

Know what? You're done. And it's good. The Guyman and I ate all of this. If you want less, serve more people with it. If you want to cook more of it, I would plan on cooking two pans worth, rather than stacking everything up.

This is summer, seasonal cooking at its best. It's what Barbuto does best, and it's something we should all learn to do.

MATTHEW I MISS YOU! Come home, you squash king.