Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Back to Asia: for Vietnamese style "shrimp" cakes

Some of Annalena's more astute readers may be wondering "what is this obsession with shrimp?"  Well, ragazzi, while there isn't always a reason for everything, there is one for this.

You all know how Annalena rants about sustainability, locality, etc, etc, etc.  Well, shrimp are not local, that is for certain.  But they are tasty, they are quick to cook, and they are a staple of Annalena's kitchen.

Unfortunately, as you have read, more than here, there are issues with the harvesting of shrimp.  Annalena has been aware of them, and has sought sustainable product when she could; however, it has been getting harder and harder to do that.

Recently, however, she learned that spot prawns, which come from the West Coast, are completely sustainable,  and will serve for shrimp in any recipe.    Emboldened, Annalena went off in search of spot prawns.

It is at times like this that she is on her hands and knees thanking her Creator for the Internet.  Annalena could not find a spot prawn in NYC for love or money (well, she only offered money).  She did find a few sources on the Internet:  she could buy four pounds, of live ones, or ten pounds of frozen ones.

The thought of receiving four pounds of live, squirming prawns, akin to large insects, on a weeknight, did not appeal to Annalena.  Ten pounds was /is a lot of fish, but that's how she went.

So, at this point, there are 8 pounds of frozen spot prawns in Annalena's freezer.   Two pounds have been dispatched, and as God is her witness, Annalena will not need to buy prawns until at least the fall.

And now you have a peek inside Annalena's life, whether you like it or not.   And an explanation of why you are seeing this mini flood of shrimp related recipes.

Annalena is also a fan of Asian flavors.  She is also a fan of easy cooking, and also, of fried foods.  And this recipe fulfills all of these features.  It is really very easy to make.  Annalena varied the recipe as she found it in the New York  Times, and will explain how she did so.  She wants you to vary it yourself.    And please pay attention to the interesting and helpful (well, maybe not helpful) asides that she provides for her ragazzi.

You need a pound of cleaned and shelled shrimp.  The original recipe called for large ones, which makes no sense in the context of this recipe.  Get what is the best value.    Put them in a food processor, together with 1/4 cup of cornstarch,  2 tablespoons of the white part of  a lemongrass stalk (to prep this, strip the top layer, which is woody and tough, and then chop it,  a couple of garlic cloves, a couple of hot peppers,  which you may seed or not seed, and the bottom 2/3 , of four scallions.  These should all be chopped before you put them in the processor.   Finally, and Annalena says this firmly, add a tablespoon of sugar.  Unrefined, if you have it.  You do need it with this dish.

Notice what is missing here:  eggs, and wheat flour.   So for those of you who are allergic to either, this is for you.  You can do this with shrimp, and with most fish, because the protein in fish, when chopped, becomes a bit gummy and gives you the adhesion that an egg normally would.  The cornstarch works as flour here, and crisps the cakes as well.  For some reason, cornstarch is very much a part of  Asian cooking, and Annalena understands not why.   Mature corn produces cornstarch, and there is no such in Asia.

Ok, as implied pulse this to a coarse paste.  It will take you all of ten seconds.    Before you go forward, let's make some sauce.   We do this by mixing the juice of four limes (get your guns ready, ragazzi.  Squeezing limes is tough), a quarter cup of fish sauce, another tablespoon of sugar, and the chopped up tops of those scalliions.

We are going to fry these babies, and please pay attention all of you who have fear of frying.  You can avoid the issue that confronts you with fried foods, i.e, greasiness and sogginess, if you (i) use enough oil that is (ii) hot enough.  Interestingly, if you use more oil, your food is less likely to absorb it than if you use less.  For this, make sure you have about a half inch depth of vegetable oil, in a non stick pan (remember the fish is sticky?  Hmmmm???).   Start heating the oil at medium heat.  Have paper towel ready.  Your oil is ready when - and this is a REALLY interesting trick, kids - you put the stick end of a wooden spoon in the oil, and little bubbles form around it.  If the stick burns to black, uh, you're too hot.

When the oil is ready, take the blade out of the food processor, and wet your hands.  (Remember, the fish is sticky?).  Make patties that are about 1.5-2 inches in diameter, and put them in the oil.  The original recipe called for coating them in cornstarch, which Annalena did, and finds no reason to do so.  They will need about two minutes per side to cook, if you keep the heat at medium.  Annalena suggests that you keep cooked fritters in a preheated, 200 degree oven, because you will not be able to make them all in one batch.

You will get somewhere between 12 and 14 cakes, when all is done.  And they're good.  It is hard to resist them, but they are very filling, especially with the sauce over them, and with glass noodles, which are one of Annalena's favorite things in the world.

This wasn't very hard, was it?  So, get yourself some prawns, or some shrimp, get out the pan, the oil, and fry, fry, fry.


Because Annalena is a tease, she is telling you that next time, we will visit the Asian style asparagus she prepared with these prawn fritters.  You'll think the wait was worth it.  Trust the donna

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