Tuesday, April 22, 2008

"It's in the bag"

I am always interested in learning a new way to get food cooked quickly, but only if the resulting cooked food tastes GOOD. If I had a choice between satisfying my hunger, now, with a quick, tasteless meal, or waiting a few hours while something tasty bubbles away, I'll go for the latter. That's why I always try to have something in the fridge that I cooked over the weekend and can just warm up, or even better, the makings of a quick pasta dish.

Steaming is a way to cook things quickly. The problem with steaming, however, is that all the "good stuff" leaches into the steaming liquid. Think I'm kidding? Steam a piece of fish sometime. Taste it. Then taste the water you steamed it in. Game, set and match.

There IS a technique that gives you the speed of steaming, but allows you to really "up" the flavor of what you're cooking. In French, they call it cooking "en papillote," or in paper. In Italian, it's called "in cartoccio" or "in a bag." Whichever way you call it, what you do is enclose a slice of fish, or chicken (it doesn't work with red meats), with your choice of flavors, in parchment paper (classic), or foil (modern). When you do it in paper, you can crimp the edges like a calzone, or you can seal them with an egg white or just some water. With foil, you just fold it over.

What do you add? Well, it's really up to you. I like to use something acid, like the seville orange juice I used tonight, or wine, or something like that. You don't need a lot. Maybe three tablespoons. I also add some herbs, or a vegetable that will cook quickly. That may be chopped leeks, or thinly sliced carrots, or green beans, or even soy beans out of the shell. Stay away from tougher veggies, like broccoli. Salt and pepper your fish or chicken, put the flavorings in and add a touch of fat if you like. You don't need much. For a pound of fish, maybe a tablespoon of oil or butter is fine.

Now, seal that package tightly, and put it on a baking sheet. You need to do this because the fish or chicken is going to throw off a lot of liquid, and if your seal isn't good, well, you'll be announcing that you elected a new pope with the clouds of smoke that come out of your kitchen. Put the package into a preheated, 450 degree oven, for ten minutes or so. And you're done. You didn't even have time to make a pot of rice or some veggies, so do them first.

Now I said chicken or fish. Fish is better. Firm, white fish is best of all. We used tilefish , which has made a local appearance, tonight. You could use flounder, cod, haddock, or things like that. It works with salmon, and it works with shrimp and scallops too. I would stay away from tuna or swordfish , or the other "muscle" fish that you can cook real quickly on a hot grill.

For chicken, this is a case where boneless breast reign supreme. Steamed chicken skin is gross, and the thighs just don't really taste that good for me.

Sometimes I'll add a seasoning like freshly grated ginger, or orange peel, something like that, but not always.

I know people who cook this way 3 or 4 times a week. They say they like the control and the speed. Geez, you'd think they were driving a car.

Try it. Try different combinations. Especially you, Laura. Both of you. :)

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