Green soup

When spring hits, there is a tradition in a lot of cusines of celebrating it with dishes that combine some or all of the new vegetables that come in. From what I've been able to gather from nutritional and food anthropology, there is almost a "biological imperative" about this, going way, WAY back. Now, this is going to make some of you laugh, and some of you skeeve out, but it makes sense.

If you were eating only what you could forage for the four or five months when the weather was cold, and there wasn't anything of a vegetative nature available, do you think you'd be a little, well, "blocked" after a certain point in time? And wouldn't you be ready for a little, ahem "relief?"

Well, a soup based on greens, or a tea based on greens, that kind of thing, is usually how this "issue" is addressed. Hot liquids are a big help, and combining that with the greens, usually gently cooked, can be the best thing you can do. Some of you may be fortunate enough to have relatives old enough to refer to how it's "time for a spring tonic." Well, this is what they're talking about. I will go no further than to say : try it.

The things you can use to make these soups are legion. I'm going to give you mine, which is a variation on a Roman classic soup, called "vignarola," which uses fava beans, artichokes, and I believe peas. They all come into season just about the same time, and they are in season in Italy now. But we don't get early artichokes in NY. And favas come later. Peas aren't even here yet, but like I've been saying for a while, I'm using up the ones we have from the pea harvest last year. So we got em. And for the last week, I've been cooking asparagus, and thriftily putting aside the extra ones. Artichokes? Well, here I'm going to have to give up and use the frozen ones. Yes, I don't HAVE to use them, I could use something else, and honestly, a combination of asparagus and peas would be just fine, maybe with some arugula or watercress, but this is how it is: I love artichokes. so here we go.

Instead of using chicken stock for this soup, what I suggest, for full effect, is that you cook asparagus, just as if you were going to serve them as steamed or boiled asparagus, and use that water. Augment it with more plain water if you need it, and put it aside. You will need about half a pound of them. You'll also need about two cups of peas, and a box of frozen artichoke hearts. Also, this being a spring soup, get yourself some early onions, maybe a bunch of them, or some ramps, or green garlic. Enough for about a third of a cup, chopped.

Saute those onions or whatever in a couple of spoons of olive oil, and add salt. When they soften, add the liquid you're using, and the artichokes first. These take the longest to cook, and cook them until they seem really soft, because the peas, and the asparagus (which have already cooked), will be soft. Add the peas first, and cook them for five minutes or so, and then the asparagus, which will only need a minute or two to warm up. Now you're ready. If you put the asparagus up in a chopped form, you could serve this soup as it is. I like to puree it though, because the combined flavor of the vegetables is really appealing to me. So I run it through the blender. You can use a food mill, or whatever you like. Just please wait until the stuff has cooled down, so you don't injure yourself in doing it.

You'll get about two quarts of what is a very nutritious, very low calorie soup out of this. You can augment it with some creme fraiche, or some fried pancetta, or something like that if you like, but for the full spring impact, I would just do it as it is, and drink it down. It's really good, it's really good for you, and you can greet spring with a big smile. And you have your own tonic.

Incidentally, this idea of the puree of greens, is very much "temple food," like I was writing about four months ago. So any time you feel like you have indulged "Just a bit too much" and fasting is too scary, do something like this with greens, and make that your meal. I guarantee you'll feel better after it all.

And now, for a dedication on this recipe, for someone who has waited WAY TOO LONG for mention. If there is anyone in the world who loves this soup more than Laura M, I don't know who does. Laura, my cat sitter premiera, my buddy, the woman who proves that lesbians ARE fun, Laura, this is for you. I know you'll make it. And even if you don't, there's some coming your way sweetheart.