Monday, May 19, 2008

Visiting the grande dame

For years, Guy and I have had a tradition of dining in SF. Since we're usually only here for one Sunday, that day was our "big dinner." We picked a place that was "high on the food chain," so to speak, in the SF restaurant world. That restaurant was, and is, Jardiniere. Coincidentally, it's only a city block from where we stay, which makes it very convenient.

In the "early days" of our eating at good places, Jardiniere ROCKED. We had a fabulous friend there, Shania Dilworth, who moved on to another restaurant, (we followed her), and now she's moved on to England. But we kept on going. And we did again last night.

People change, restaurants change, and while Jardiniere is still a great restaurant, we may be reconsidering this one.

Don't get me wrong. Every element of the place is great. They have warm, competent - MORE than competent people working there, they do what they can to make it a wonderful visit. And the food is delicious. But I think that Guy and I have moved on with our taste buds, and it may be time to think about a new place.

Let me first say that, before we went to dinner, we got a lesson in how there are only four degrees of separation in the world. We were standing on line to get into Beach Blanket Babylon and started chatting with the people in front of us, as we do. The lady turned out to be the mother of the man who is the life partner of the head sommelier at Jardiniere. He was coming to the show, and we met him. And we found out that when he and his partner were living in NY, they were regulars at Savoy, one of our favorite restaurants. And he sent us with a message to the Sunday manager.

There are no coincidences.

Anyway, to the food. The menu is interesting and on one level, challenging. Jardiniere is trying to walk a path in between California casual, and high end French. That's a very difficult balance. To me, the dishes that are the best are the ones that stay true to one, but not the other, line. New potato salad with avocado and hard boiled egg, and mint oil. THAT was TERRIFIC. I am not a fan of eggs in boiled form, but I ate these. Now that's California all over. Guy had foie gras terrine with toasted brioche. Totally French.

Because Guy was interested in the scallop appetizer, our server Ann suggested splitting a plate as a middle course. It was "ok," and here is something we will be thinking about, as spoiled NY foodies. On the East Coast, we get wonderful, lovely scallops. They're not a special deal. And if you do too much to scallops, they lose their scallopness. (I made up that word). These were ok.

Main courses: blue nose bass - which we NEVER see in NY, with varous components, including a bacon "wash," and a mixed grill of grass fed lamb: chop, loin and belly, with veggies. Very rich, very filling and at 40 bucks it should have been. SO rich I couldn't finish.

Nick, the manager, did a special bit of wine pairing for us, choosing "tastes" that were really excellent.

No room for dessert, we had tea and espresso, and paid the very expensive tab.

Now, you can't really hear any complaints from Annalena in the above, and there really aren't any. Still thinking about this one. We'll have to decide...

Oh, and Annalena was very disturbed by one customer in the restaurant. As is traditional, she will speak out. A gentleman came in, who has more years than Annalena, with his daughter and her friends. He was wearing jeans. Jeans in a restaurant where the pricepoint of a maindish is 35.00 or more is a no no. Jeans in a restaurant on a 60 year old man are a no no. So, too, is a cowboy had, worn throughout the meal. So, too, is getting a glass of ice cubes to put in the red wine. Annalena nearly keeled over. But the worst of all: and you could have expected this: he ordered the most expensive appetizer on the menu: caviar, at 150.00. He didn't know what it was or how to eat it. Do I suspect a show off here? Oh, well, at least it was cause for some laughs betwixt us and the staff.

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