I shouldn't take things for granted

As we walk through the market year here, I try to stress the things that I think are new and interesting, and may not be on the tip of everyone's palettes. So I was all set to write about fiddlehead ferns today, but something stopped me. The "something" was a realization that, well, in stressing stuff like fiddleheads, and rhubarb and asparagus, I have in fact been neglecting some of the basics. For example, there's nothing on here as to how I cook plain rice. Risotto, yes. Rice, no. And last night, after a cooking class, during which we made what must have been about the 6000th pan of fried potatoes I've made in my life, I realized I haven't written about that lowly spud, and since it is such a favorite, it does need to be called out. And since I am proud of the way I cook those potatoes, well, I'll take some bragging rights.

People think that potatoes are not something to cook at home, because they take too long. Or, because the only way they know them is fried or baked, or "microwave baked" (one of the most disgusting things I can think of, by the way, is a microwave baked potato. Yes, it takes four minutes. Gee, was it worth the wait?). Frying potatoes the way you get them outside in a restaurant of any type, bluntly, is impossible. I can think of very few home kitchens that are equipped to do it. And french fried potatoes HAVE to be served "a minute," hot, right out of the pan, to the table, and they have to be done in small batches. T ry making everyone happy when you're making french fries for six. Not a possibility. Baked potatoes the old fashioned way? A great dish. But it DOES take a minimum of 45 minutes. For me, it's worth the wait. But if you're trying to make dinner fast, it's something that goes by the board.

But everyone LOVES potatoes. So I'm going to describe to you how I make mine, just about every time I make them. The basic step is a good one to have in mind, because once you have the "parboiled" potatoes, you can go in different directions. I'll talk about some of them.

Let's talk first, however, about potatoes per se, and pans for potatoes. You can spend hours, reading on line, about what potato is best for what. Well, let me tell you what I think: I think that you use red potatoes if you want to make plain boiled ones, or you want a soup where you want chunks of potatoes rather than soft ones. The red ones are "waxy" and hold their shape. The big russets are ideal for baking, and you can use them for other things, but that's just about the only way I use them. Every other potato is fine for the way I describe them here. I generally go for the golden colored ones, like carolas, or yukon golds, or something like that. Now, I have nothing against the red fleshed, pink fleshed, or blue fleshed varieties. They taste wonderful. I just have a problem with that color on my plate. That's my prejudice. Don't let it impact you. Use the ones you want.

So let's start cooking. The thing I have learned about these potatoes is that you can never make enough of them. Standard instructions say to use one six ounce potato per person.

RIGHT.

Last night, for four people, I made six potatoes of about that size. No leftovers. And if I had made eight, or ten, or twelve there wouldn't have been either (well, maybe at twelve, people would have wanted to take leftovers home) . But there is something "internal" about spuds that just makes people want to eat more and more and more of them. So plan accordingly.

Peel the potatoes. Now, I will get in trouble with the health police about this, because potato skins are very nutritious, they're loaded with fiber and all in all, really good for you.

Eat a green vegetable with them, is all I will say.

After you've peeled them, cut the potatoes into chunks that are small enough to be eaten in one bite. Then, dump them all in a pot, and cover them with just enough water to cover plus an inch.

Here, you have to be liberal with the salt. I use a heaping tablespoon to cook six potatoes, and increas proportionately for more. Most of that salt will go out in the water anyway, but you need it. If you doubt me, taste a bit of raw potato.

Start these in cold water, with the pot covered. That will help bring it to the boil faster. When it does come to the boil, lower the heat and uncover the pot. Six minutes is enough to make a nice firm potato that will hold its shape, eight minutes is standard, ten will make a very soft one that will come close to mashable.

Drain these really well. In fact, if you can, do this step in the morning. And then put the potatoes out on a baking sheet lined with paper towels, and refrigerate them. (Little known fact: if your fridge works well, it is the best place in the kitchen to dry things. ). You want these taters nice and dry for what you're going to do next.

I am not a fan of nonstick pans, but I do have one, and I use it for eggs, and for these potatoes. I coat the pan with vegetable oil. Olive oil will work and it makes a very dark, crispy potatoe which tastes, well, of olive oil. Use it if you like it, but stick to vegetable oil if you want the potato flavor to come through. Make sure your pan is big enough so that all of the potatoes have a place in them, without layering. Get the oil hot and put the potatoes in, in one layer. Now, your patience is going to be tested, as are your senses. LEAVE THEM ALONE. Just listen to them cook. There is a distinct sound that potatoes make when the water is going off, and they're carmelizing. Don't move those potatoes until you hear a change from a sizzle, to a crackle. Then stir them gently, so that the uncooked side hits the oil and surface of the pan (you MAY need more oil at this point. Use it). Sometimes, in the cooking process, the brown bits of the potatoes stick to the pan, even a non-stick one. If that happens, use the most underappreciated ingredient you have in your kitchen: water. Just add about a quarter cup. The potatoes will dissolve into the water and then recoat the chunky potatoes. And cook until you hear that sound change again. Once more, engage your senses: are they brown enough for you? If they are, stop cooking them. Let them cool a bit because they will be very hot. Add a sprinkle of salt if you like and serve em up.

These are terrific. If you DO have left overs, they are great with eggs the next time around, especially if you have some other vegetables and then you can make a classic Spanish tortilla. I also positively LOVE these with chickpeas, in a riff on Indian cooking.

Now, remember I said there were things you could do after the boiling step? Yes there are. Let's say you want mashed potatoes. (Isn't that a funny statement ? "Let's say" you want mashed potatoes. Admit it: reading that phrase made you want them. I just had a big breakfast and I want them). Well, then cook the potatoes for the longer period of time. When you drain them, save some of the water (and all you bakers out there: if you don't k now that potato water will give your b read the best lift you can imagine, now you do. You save that water and use it the next time around, ok?). Put the potatoes back into the pot, with that little bit of water. Be GENEROUS with butter. For six potatoes, half of a stick is not too much. I have a ricer, and I guess I should use it, but I love the old fashioned masher and that's what I use. Then, add some dairy. You won't need a lot, but somehow, I always add more than I need. And I usually use cream instead of milk (cholesterol? What's that?). And I finish with a grind of fresh black pepper. Or a dash of olive oil, especially the "olio nuovo" that you can find in the winter, when eating mashed potatoes should be an almost everyday thing.

So, there you have it. One of the most comforting of foods, put to you in an easy way. At one point in my life, I used to make these every week. I would boil up a bunch of potatoes on Sunday, put then in the fridge, and I'd be ready. But then again, at one point in my life, I had a 33 inch waist, dark hair, and could party until 4 in the morning and go to work the next day. Oh well....

But I still like the potatoes