Greenmarket Friends: Nivea

Cooking seasonally, and locally, the way I try to do, only works if you're fortunate enough to have good suppliers. There's more than one writer who has said "good cooking is really good shopping." I have to agree. Maybe things are different in Europe, in fact, I'm sure they are, but even in New York City, it can be extremely difficult to find produce, meat, fish and cheese that is fresh, and tastes good. Price is another matter. But it's relative. We've all been conditioned to expect to pay as little as possible for food, sacrificing taste, for quantity and convenience. And it's a shame.

Fortunately, as far as I can see, this is changing. It's gratifying to see the crowds - the ENORMOUS crowds, at farmer's markets, even if it means that if I get there too late, I won't get some of the stuff that I want. There are no bargains at Farmer's Markets. These are small farms, basically getting by on the sweat labor of the farmers that own them, and their families. Keeping a peach on the tree long enough for it to taste sweet and complex, for example, increases the risk of losing that peach. SO, the costs go up. It's a tradeoff. You pay more, but if you feel like you get more, it's an easy decision.

When you know people like Nivea, the decision is even easier. I've referred to Nivea in earlier posts as "the goddess of vegetables," and I mean it. There are a lot of farmers to choose from at the markets I visit, but I ALWAYS go to Nivea's stand (Yuno's) first. Only if I can't find enough to cook with (very unlikely), or there is something in particular that I want that she doesn't have (that happens sometimes), do I go elsewhere. And it's fun to watch the seasons go by at her stand: the broccoli rabb flowers that she brings early in the spring, then the asparagus, then the first field lettuces, the squash.

I'm getting a bit out of control. See what she does?

Nivea also seems to have a knack for hiring interesting, fun people. This year, Ken and Adam have provided more laughs, and more fun, than is really fair.

Anyway, like I say, you'll hear more about Nivea and her gang through this year long blog. For now, though, I want to leave you with a recipe based on one of the vegetables that are uniquely hers. Right around late fall, Nivea has the most interesting sweet potatoes you can imagine. I'm not a big fan of sweet potatoes, but Nivea tossed one in my bag once, and told me "try it."

I was hooked. This week, the big white yams were there, weighing at least a pound and a half each. They're really not that sweet, but they sure are good. This is what I do with them.

Take one of Nivea's big white yams, peel it, and cut it into half inch slices. You can get about 10 or even 12 of these from one potato. The slices will be uneven, and that's okay.

Put them into a pot of cold salted water, and bring it to a slow boil, for about seven or eight minutes. Drain them, and when they're cool, get a grill pan ready and oil it lightly. Heat it up, and when it's nice and hot, grill the spud slices for about two minutes on each side, until you get a grill mark. You could do it in a frying pan with some oil as well. They'll taste as good, but they won't be as pretty.

You can salt these, or sugar them, if you really want to. But the best way to eat them, in my opinion, is with some lime juice. I learned that from Nivea too.

I'll show this entry to Nivea, and she'll probably hit me and say 'IM NOT LIKE THAT AT ALL." We'll have a good laugh over that.