The Squash King(Queen?)

"You don't need to keep up, you just need to keep open." That's a line from Armisted Maupin's latest book, said by none other than Anna Madrigal, one of my favorite characters in all of literature, and one of the inspirations for my blog name. It's good advice.

The advice is given in the context of a 50 something gay man, dealing with 30 somethings. And it's very apt. You dont' need , and you wont' hear me rant, about the younger generation. You've heard the stories: they don't read, they're reckless, they're all hooked into computers, they're fake, if you're over 40 you're dead to them, yadda yadda. I try to keep in mind that, twenty years ago, people were saying that about me. And twenty years before that, they were saying it about my mother. No, you "just need to keep open."

Because then someone like Matthew walks into your life.

I know WHO introduced me to Matthew, but I don't remember the first time. Matthew is in his 30s, and yes , he IS a 30 something. But anyone who ever wants to use a phrase like "they're all alike" and wants to say it about Matthew, is going to have to answer to this old guy. Matthew taught me computer stuff, he's good at what he does for a living (all ten of them), he shows up on time, he's sharp and, perhaps most important, he once told me "you have style."

I remember that day, because it was a very, VERY bad day, and I was getting beaten up at work a lot. And anytime I took another hit, I would mutter under my breath "well, yeah. But Matthew says I have style."

Now, this is a food blog, so where is this going? I never said we were going to go DIRECTLY to food, but we're getting there. A few months ago, Matthew, Peter, Dave, Guy and I went to see Xanadu - Matthew suggested it. I have never laughed harder in my life. And afterward, we went back to our place for a supper. Matthew didn't go right away- he went to do some work first. No, they're NOT all alike....

The meal that night was a leg of lamb, a gratin of potatoes and because you HAVE to have vegetables, a medley of summer squash.

Matthew raved about the squash. A 30 something, asking about vegetables. NO, they are NOT all alike. And if you don't keep open, you won't meet people like Matthew.

This is the "recipe" for the squash we had that night. Later in the week, I turned the excess into soup, simply by pureeing it with some chicken stock and some herbs.

Here's the thing about summer squash: we ALL know zucchini. And we have ALL had it overcooked, and awful. Don't buy the big ones. "Zucchini" means "little squashes." Go for the small ones. And also, something very important: there are more summer squashes than zucchini: patty pans, avocado squash "cucuzza" (which means, in dialect, a certain part of the anatomy that is lied about on aol all the time. When you see it, you'll understand). They all have slightly different flavors, slightly different colors, and if you're as demented as I am, you can really get a kick out of piling up different ones, and just staring at them for a while.

For a side dish, I like to plan on 1.5 squash per person. SMALL squashes. Get a variety, and then do what good cooks do: let the shapes guide how you cut them. Zucchini is long and round,so either cut circles, or strips. Pattypan is ridged, like a fancy hubcap. Make chunks, with a bit of the ridge on each of them. Avocado squash is fat and round, like a moon. Try half moons.

Cucuzza is long and ridged, like a.

Well, maybe you should leave this one for display. But you can also cut it like you would a zucchini.

When you've finished being jealous of the cucuzza, and cut the rest of the squash up, get a slick of olive oil in a pan, and peel some garlic. Again, this is up to you. I like LOTS of garlic, and the night I made this, I think I used twelve cloves. We are all friends, and we all like garlic. Use less if you care to. When the oil is hot, put the garlic and the squash in, and sprinkle in some salt. Some fresh thyme leaves, if you have them, are nice. The squash has lots of water in it, so it will sizzle. When the sizzle dies down a little, check the portion touching the pan. If it's brown enough for you, toss the squash and brown some more.

When you're done, toss it out into a bowl. Check a piece for seasoning, and add more salt, or pepper.

At this point, I like to add something citrussy. In high summer, that is almost always chopped, fresh, lemon verbena. But you can use lemon, or lime or anything like that at all.

Then serve it forth, either as it is, or with something else.

"Keep open." Maybe you'll be lucky enough to find your own Matthew