Thursday, November 8, 2007

A meal for Kevin and Chuck

Kevin has been my friend for longer than anyone else I know, and Chuck is close behind. For Kevin and I, it was 1983, a church retreat. We were in one of those touchie feelie small groups that we've all spent too much time in (one is too many). The group leader was very much of the "breathe in and get in touch with your uvula" school of thought, so Kevin and I made lawyer and accounting jokes and complimented each other's sweaters. Chuck came on the scene soon after that, and when Kevin announced to us, by phone one day, that he was "seeing someone" and we'd be "surprised" when we met him, well. ... we were. Twenty plus years later, it looks like it's working. Sure is working for us too.

In the twenty four or so years I've known him, I've seen Kevin angry ONE TIME. And I've heard about a second time. Once every twelve years? Not as infrequent as Hailey's comet, but in the same class.

Anyway, "KSTS," (ask him what it means. I'll never tell) is now retired. He divides his time between the house he and Chuck have on Southhampton and their apartment in Greenwich Village. And he sings with Guy in the NYC Gay Men's Chorus. And now, he cooks, too. Things he wanted to do but couldn't when he was booking many hours at his job.

Every summer, we get the singular privilege of spending Labor Day weekend with Kevin and Chuck at that summer home. It is clearly THEIR house. Watching Chuck walk in on Saturday morning with his sunflowers, or Kevin taking that ONE leaf out of their pool, I get the feeling that this was ALWAYS meant to be. And while you're laughing with Kevin in the kitchen and NOT cooking, you look up and the table has been set perfectly. That's Chuck. Sort of moving around, quietly, and doing what everyone else forgot to do. We look forward to it every year.

This next set of recipes (for Kevin and Chuck, I wouldn't DARE post just one recipe), is inspired by something they grow at that house: lavender. They grow the best lavender, period. And lavender is an herb which I wish I knew what to do with. I make shortbread cookies with it, and occasionally I make lemon/lavender potatoes. That takes one sprig for two pounds of potatoes. I also steep it in honey and then use the honey for ice cream. And that's about it. Given the standard size of one bunch of lavender, I still have 2/3 of it left. So when I get the huge bunches that Kevin and Chuck give me , I smile , inhale and think "WHAT IN GODS NAME AM I GONNA DO WITH ALL OF THIS?"

Now, I have a new idea. Last year, in San Francisco, we were eating dinner at Foreign Cinema, being taken care of by one of our favorite waiters in the world, whom we know as "Daddy P." Yup, Daddy P. That's all we know. They offered an heirloom pork chop. Since I have begun to become reacquainted with pork over the last few years, I gave it a try. Infused with lavender, it was wonderful. And I've been thinking of it ever since. Now, I've given it a try. We ate it tonight.

Honestly, it was good, but it will be MUCH better with the sunkissed lavender from the boys' backyard. If they'll let me make it for them when we visit.

The whole meal is right in the "wheelhouse" of these guys. Much of it can be done ahead, which is something that they both like . The veggies are simple, but damn good, which is the way they cook. And there are potatoes, a requirement for meals cooked for Kevin.

The menu:

Pan seared heirloom pork chops infused with lavender
Oven roasted "fries"
Sweet red and hot peppers with olive oil and garlic.
Arugula salad with balsamic vinegar dressing.

There's a step in the pork recipe that isn't necessary, but it's there for Kevin. See if you can find it. Kevin's gonna howl when he reads it.

Get some very high quality, thick chops. One per person. Put them to the side for a minute. Combine half a teaspoon of salt per chop, with a chopped up bunch of lavender, or even two if you're making a lot of them. Mix the salt and lavender. Then, pat this on the chops, on both sides, and put them in the refrigerator, uncovered, at least one and maybe two days before you going to use them. They'll be fine. When you remember, turn them so the other side is on the top.

On the morning of the day you're making dinner, boil some whole potatoes in their skin, in some salted water, until they're not quite done. Drain them, and let them cool in the fridge.

Also, slice about eight sweet red peppers into strips, and combine them with two sliced hot red peppers (this is a lot. You're going to have extra. Good pizza topping)

Preheat your oven to 400 degrees. Slice each potato into four thick slices, six if they're really big, eight if they're huge. How many? It depends. How much do you like potatoes? Get a cookie sheet and rub olive oil over it. Then, toss your potato slices in a bowl with more olive oil and some salt. Lay them out , a cut side down, on the cookie sheet, and roast for twenty minutes. After ten minutes, turn them to expose the brown side on top.

While that's happening, get a big pan and put some olive oil in it. Peel as much garlic as you're comfortable with (for us, it's probably 3 cloves per person) and chop it. Alternate peppers and garlic in the big pant, adding some salt. Cook at a medium heat, turning every now and then, for about ten minutes. Put this to the side .

You can do both of these ahead of time. To do the chops, bring them to room temperature, and brush off the herb/salt mix. If you don't like that thick line of fat down the side, cut it away. Rinse them under cold water and pat them dry. Fill a pan snugly with the chops, after you've coated it with a bit of olive oil (even pork needs some fat to start). Heat the oil and add the chops. Pan fry them for 3-5 minutes. How can you tell how long? Listen to them. When the sound changes from a fierce snap to a gentle sizzle, turn them and cook the other side. Be dazzled by the beautiful brown color you get. Move them into the oven where you cooked the potatoes, and let them roast for ten minutes. That will get them cooked all the way through (if they're thin chops, 6-8 minutes is fine).


Get them out of the oven and let them rest, while you make the dressing. Arugula this time of year is a little sharper than it usually is, and balsamic vinaigrette helps. I use about two tablespoons of balsamic and 7-8 tablespoons of olive oil with a little salt. Whisk this, and then toss them over your greens.

You've got some wonderful chops, some great potatoes, and lovely red peppers all sauteed and ready to go, and a good, "simple" salad. Dessert can be anything you want. If I had figs around, maybe I'd just bake them a little and drizzle some lavender honey on it. Or just some ice cream.

If I get to make the dinner, I'll let Kevin pick.

THIS IS FOR YOU MY FRIEND. HOPE YOU LIKE IT

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